Sometimes climbers just seem to belong - to be par...
Description
The first pitch of Easy V is beautiful, easy climbing; it's a new favorite of mine for beginner climbers. The holds are generally buckets, and the feet are always there. There's an obvious crux half-way up, but with a little thought a beginner would have no problem. The belay anchor is best built off to the climber's right, even though the route comes up to the climber's left. There's a bolted rappel station climber's far left; a 60m rope will bring you back to some ledges above the pathway, with an easy scramble down.
P2 involves walking about 60 feet to the right along the GT Ledge, to a small offwidth chimney at a pine tree with a rappel station on it.
P3 is a frikken joke at 5.3. Any 5.3 leader attempting this pitch is going to have the everliving bejeezuz scared out of them. It's an interesting sequence, and the two cruxes are protected, but I'd give the moves at least 5.5 due to the awkwardness.
Location
Same start as Arrow. P1: go up right and follow huge corner to the GT Ledge. Observe the fixed ring piton left by the first ascent party (it's now over 60 years old).
Protection
Good protection throughout the route, with the majority being smaller pieces. Gear anchors at each belay. From the very top, rappel back to the GT ledge (60m rope), then walk 80 feet to climber's left (past where you came up) to the bolted rappel over Arrow.
Love your comment about P3! I was seconding a new leader on the climb a few days ago. I had not done it previously. We had some trouble finding the start to P3 mainly because I couldn't believe what I was looking up at was rated 5.3!
I thought the moves just before and through the chimney/cleft were technically demanding at the 5.5 level as well as pretty awkward.
My leader did the Cold Turkeys variation, staying on the nose until forced left by increased difficult, on P1 and it was good.
By saxfiend Administrator From: Atlanta, GA Sep 29, 2007 rating: 5.4
Very fun route for the grade, nicer than some of the 5.5 pitches I've been on at the Gunks. Agree that the final pitch would be a real rude awakening for a 5.3 leader.
There's plenty of 5.3 leaders at the Gunks! It's probably the only climbing area where anyone would argue about whether a route is 5.3 or 5.4.
One thing about the last pitch of Easy V is that it scares seconds as well as leaders. Even though the crux is inside a chimney with almost no exposure it's scary. I've seen a number of seconds turn into screaming, blubbering, moaning wrecks there after having no problem with the first pitch. The move is only 5.3 but it's not a normal "reach up for the next hold" sort of place.
This is a great climb. P1 is great for new leaders, there are placements everywhere. P3 is interesting, but not hard. I solid 5.3 leader would have no problem with P3. I thought this was a delightful climb from bottom to top. Just a mellow corner up to an interesting 3rd pitch.
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