Named for a white and yellow flower in the lily family that, according to Homer's Odyssey, grows in abundance in the hereafter. This route had either no or one stars in the old guidebooks, and wasn't mentioned in the Williams Select guide either. However, with the new "Gray Dick", it was awarded three stars - and rightfully so. Great route, protection thin but solid, crux is well-protected with some thought, and there's some very heady, lower-angle face-climbing to end off the pitch. Pitch two, however, is very much not worth doing - overgrown, little protection, and very difficult communication.
Location
Start at a large, yellow right-facing corner, 120 feet left of Beginner's Delight and just to the right of Welcome To The Gunks. Climb the left-facing corner - watch for loose blocks - to the roof (crux) then climb much easier terrain to a belay near the top of Welcome to the Gunks. P2: bushwack through tons of shrubbery over uninspiring rock to the very top. Not worth it, IMHO.
Protection
There's just enough protection to make this PG; the crux protects well although it requires a bit of thought, and above it can be run-out - but the terrain is literally 5.3 or so. Puzzling gear anchor for the belay. Most people rappel after the first pitch, from the top of Welcome to the Gunks - this rappel requires either two 60m ropes, or an intermediate rappel off some old, scary-looking pitons and fixed gear.
Great moves and a good committing route at the grade. However, as mentioned in the description above, as of last spring ('06), there was at least one very large block in the corner that was about ready to part ways with the wall. This thing is big, but moves easily... too easily. I don't envy the climber that pulls it down, or the belayer that happens to be holding the rope the day it goes. I'll second the PG13 because of the block, when it's gone it'll be PG. Climb gingerly... it's a great line otherwise.
Did this on 4/18/09 and found it a lot of fun, requiring some thoughtful and committing moves for the grade, with sustained climbing up to the crux. I'd definitely recommend the climb, but the descent was a real buzz killer.
IMHO the pro was not PG13, but more like G/PG. Up to the crux, the climb follows a corner with a nice consistent crack. The crack made the climb really gear-friendly, and I had no problem slotting nuts or cams at will. After the roof I found the pro slightly trickier, but I was never "run out" by more than about 10'. The page won't let me rate this safer than PG13, so I've just left the safety rating blank.
While the first pitch is great, I have to say the second pitch is definitely not worth doing: it's a bushwhack over lichen-coated 5.0 rock. I recommend pulling through the crux, climbing partway up the face above, then turning the corner on the left to a nice ledge belay and rapping from the tree at the far end.
While this was a great climb, the descent was truly awful. I'd strongly encourage two 60m ropes for rappeling, which will reach the ground in one go even from the p2 belay. We took one rope, and this required three rappels. The first rappel (from p2 belay) was from a thick but dead pine. The second rappel started at a tree hanging awkwardly out over a ledge (unfortunately this is where you'll rappel if you just do p1). But the last rappel station was the real treat: three rusty pitons, a corroded micronut and an old pink tricam tied together with bleached slings and cordelette. No thanks.
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