Alex getting into the P2 roof.What a nice 5.6 roof...
Description
The beginning is tricky and scary if this is your limit. The reward is one of the best 5.6 roofs in the Gunks!
Walk a few minutes down the carriage road to the access trail. It is in the same area as Frog's Head, Sixish, and Maria. Start at a thin crack that angles up and right and then becomes vertical, about 20' right of Sixish.
P1: Climb the face left of the crack, traverse right (crux), and continue up the face to a big roof. Belay here. 5.8-, 100'.
P2: Angle out right over the roof (5.6), and then angle up left to a tree on the GT Ledge. 5.6, 80'. From here, you can rappel to the ground with two 60m ropes.
P3: Follow the right-facing corner above to the cliff top (5.4). Descend via the Uberfall Descent.
Protection
Takes pretty good gear, but beware that the crux is before you put protection in. A good spotter is considered gear here.
By Adam Catalano From: Albany, New York Mar 28, 2007
Making one more move up on small crimps can get your feet above the polished crux and make the two move traverse right a bit easier. Doesn't make crux gear any better, just avoids the polished feet spot.
I hesitate to label this PG-13 - you can get a small cam in to protect the crux. Also, as it's a popular route, the fall from the crux has been tested hundreds of times; if it were a serious-injury-causer PG-13, that would be well known.
That said, you can definitely hurt an ankle, and even if you do get the gear, you'd better have a good belayer if you think you might make use of the piece!
Also, consider your second in linking P1 and P2 - if you run it to the GT ledge and your second falls, they are taking almost if not the exact same fall as the leader.
If you come in to the crux from the good holds on the left you can protect it with a small cam. Still not a comfortable fall. Going straight up in to the crux is a little harder. Roof on P2 is ... steep! Great climb!
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