A classic first pitch that was first led after pins were placed on rappel. The second pitch follows City Lights.
P1: Start at a short left-facing corner 25’ right of Son of Easy O and just left of City Lights. Climb the outside corner and face to a horizontal hand traverse. Move left past a crack and mantle up to a stance. Step and angle right to follow the crack and face to the bolt anchors at the ledge. 5.8, 80'.
Direct start - 5.10b, PG13/R. Great but tricky to protect hence the "R" rating. Follow the thin crack straight up from the ground. You can place a nut in the corner and a small RP up high which prevents you from decking. Have your partner ready to stop drop and roll if you come off.
P2: Climb up and right from the bolted anchor, to the cliff top.
September '76, third day ever climbing. We both fail; lower off crux pin, leave biner. Sulking a bit, then notice a tall chap with a coiled rope over his shoulder, angling up solo from the left. He's wearing a white cap. "That your biner?" "Yeah." "You want it?" "Uh, sure. But don't put yourself out, man." A few moves further, drops us the biner...then easily continues up a thin line left of Pas de Deux. At the same time we both say, "It's Henry Barber." He finishes the pitch--Heather, I believe it's called--and joins someone on the Son of Easy O belay. He clips an old pin and galavants over the big roof to the right, down, back up.
Ehm... Actually the second pitch doesn't follow City Light. From the bolted anchor it goes a bit to the right, then straight up. But never mind, it's 5.4 or so anyway.
By Joe M From: Rapid City, SD Jun 2, 2008 rating: 5.8 PG13
A very fun route! My first 5.8 lead in the Gunks and enjoyed all of the first pitch. Would definitely do it again.
The protection is PG, but certainly only that. The crux is well protected. The climbing above backs off to 5.7, and has gear at least every 10', though it wanders a bit. Double ropes help.
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