Bob leading the second pitch of Hawk. Bring the l...
Description
Locate a clean crack system leading past a big pine to a smaller one about 50' right of Minty. This pitch is often used by guides to toprope beginners.
P1: Climb the crack to the upper tree. 5.3, 80'. This pitch was highly impacted by massive rockfall in 2008. See comments below.
P2: Climb up a short corner (about 10'-15'), place a LONG runner, and traverse right about 15' to another corner. Place pro and commit to a "old school" gunks 5.4 move stepping right around the corner. Things ease up about 20' later and you can continue right and up to the GT Ledge at the base of a large corner. 5.5, 140'.
Not a pitch for a first 5.5 lead - the crux is very steep and even with the big jugs it's scary. Also, it's very easy to lock yourself down with rope drag on this pitch.
P3: Up the corner to the top. 5.3, 70'.
Descend either to the left (Minty) or the right (Madame G's). Or walk left to the Uberfall. The Madame G's rap is better on weekends since it doesn't interfere with climbers coming up.
Protection
Standard Gunks rack. Aliens will make you feel better at the crux.
By Bill Hutchins From: Bethesda, MD Oct 6, 2007 rating: 5.4
The second pitch is spectacular. Lots of exposure and interesting moves, all at 5.4. Only in the Gunks. Use runners to limt rope drag. The runner on the protection just before the traverse around the first corner needs to be very long to keep the rope from being dragged across the corner.
P1- Very straightforward climbing, though pro is a little tricky off the deck.
P2- Difficult route-finding; climbing is easy yet exhilirating. The runner around the first corner should, as mentioned above, be very long. There is some old webbing with a steel screwgate at this point- be judicious about using this of course. Highly recommended pitch.
P3- Extremely short, but with (in my opinion) the most difficult rock climbing moves of the climb.
Rappelling off Madame G's requires about about thirty feet to the right and ten feet of easy down climbing (using a tree). Rap bolts are not noticeable from above, so get beta on this before leaving the ground.
The first pitch is always dry and is an excellent first climb for a new trad leader, especially if the upper pitches are wet and noboby else is doing the climb.
RE: Earlier comment - There is absolutely nothing tricky about the pro off the deck.
The first pitch is now......sad. Now that the climb is opened (after last Fall's rockfall) the first pitch is not the same, at all. Most trees are gone from near the base of the climb, and in the nearby talus, having been replaced by broken rock from the fall. The ledges are now covered with so much broken rock and sand that it could be considered dangerous, for the leader,the belayer, and anybody walking by. It will rain on your belayer. We went past the original first pitch ledge, to the next ledge up, where there's a small pine tree still intact. It's just big enough to rap off, which my partner and I did. The rap webbing was newly installed on July 11. A 60 meter rope makes it to the ground. It used to be a great climb to easily set up a toprope on the first pitch, especially when I had my daughter with me.
Pitch 1 is not the same as before the rock fall. A lot of loose pebble and rocks on each of the ledges. Pros and moves are slightly more difficult. Not for a new 5.4 leader. Pitch 2, the route finding is easy if you remember to stay below the pins. Just keep traverse right and follow the natural line.
Jim S is correct that the first pitch is very different now, but note that the loose material is on easy, flat ledges - this doesn't affect any of the class 5 moves. Pitches 2 & 3 are unchanged and not littered by debris. Don't hesitate to do this wild and fun climb if you are up for it!
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