Another classic route on a great section of the cliff.
The first pitch of Annie Oh! is a bit runout; the second pitch is mega-classic, steep, exciting face.
People often skip the first pitch of Annie Oh!, climbing the first pitch of Three Doves, Limelight, or Arrow to the GT Ledge, and then climbing the second pitch of Annie Oh! from there. Done this way, the route becomes a four-star classic.
The Annie Oh! access trail is just past some white rocks on the left side of the carriage road, at an open area with a good view of the valley. This is about a 13-min. walk from the Uberfall, and a 9-min. walk from where the East Trapps Connector Trail meets the carriage road.
At the cliff, spot a huge left-facing corner on the right; this is Easy Verschneidung. Annie Oh! starts about 60' left of Easy V and 20' left of Limelight. This is about 15' right of a large block leaning against the wall (Three Doves).
P1: Climb 40' up a runout slab (5.4 R) to a left-facing corner capped by a small overhang. Turn the overhang, continue up past the right side of a scary block, and angle back left past dirty ledges to the obvious ledge. Belay at any of several big trees. 5.8, 100'.
P1 (variations): Climb the first pitch of Three Doves, Limelight, or Arrow to get to the same ledge. (Recommended).
P2: Start by scrambling up some left-facing flakes. The wall steepens here and the climbing gets harder. Climb up the face, following the path of least resistance, and pass a scary loose block. Continue up the bright white face above, with several thin 5.8 moves. At the final roof, either exit right onto Limelight, or move left to a groove near the top of the wall. Make an awkward exit move up the groove to a bolt anchor at the top. 5.8+, 100'.
Descent: Rap from the bolt anchor back to the GT Ledge (one 60m rope, but watch the ends). Downclimb to the big tree with rap slings. Rap 100' to the ground with a 60m rope.
Protection
Standard rack with emphasis on small pro. Small cams useful for the first pitch. Small cams and nuts useful for the second pitch.
By eric larson From: aurora, co Apr 22, 2008 rating: 5.8+
i climbed the first pitch of arrow to get up here.. much nicer first pitch imo.. definitely be careful of that loose block, tempting to pull on it, but there plenty of holds before/past it!
first pitch is way exciting, I used all my small cams
By Ross Purnell From: Palmyra May 26, 2009 rating: 5.8+ PG13
First pitch can also be wet. After rain the day before, p1 of Annie Oh! was wet. I got halfway up, then traversed over to p1 of Limelight and finished there. I also suggest doing Three Doves, Limelight, or Arrow as an alternate to p1 of Annie Oh! Second pitch was wonderful though.
found the second pitch fairly serious. a spooky loose block, hairy flake, no pro, not a very steep clean fall, and crux climbing seemed R rated in my book.
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