Jean Aschenbrenner climbing the huge flakes near t...
Description
Limelight is another mega-classic on this great wall, along with Three Doves, Arrow, and Annie Oh!. Limelight is the easiest, so it may be the best choice for your first climb in this area.
The Limelight access trail is just past some white rocks on the left side of the carriage road, at an open area with a good view of the valley. This is about a 13-min. walk from the Uberfall, and a 9-min. walk from where the East Trapps Connector Trail meets the carriage road.
At the cliff, spot the huge left-facing corner of Easy Verschneidung on the right. Limelight starts about 40' left of Easy V and 20' left of Arrow.
Scramble up 15' to a ledge below a groove. Directly above you'll see huge right-leaning flakes that are 50' up the wall.
P1: Climb up the groove and face to the huge flakes. Follow the flakes up and right to the GT Ledge. 5.6, 80'.
P2: Climb up and left past some boulders to a ledge. Continue up easy ledges aiming for a left-facing corner. Pass a small overhang and make a dicey step left into a thin, left-facing flake at the start of the corner. Climb up the corner, clip a pin, and traverse left under a roof (crux). Continue up a crack to a ledge, and go left to a bolt anchor. 5.7, 100'.
Descent: Rap from the bolt anchor back to the GT ledge. Downclimb to a big tree with rap slings. Rap 100' to the ground with a 60m rope.
Protection
Standard Rack. Black and blue Aliens and a ball nut are useful in the thin flake on the second pitch.
I think the pin is gone now. Don't count on finding it. But the pro is OK.
The second rap goes right over 3 Doves - be careful about throwing a rope. It sucks to get hit by a rope as you pull the crux. The anchor over at Arrow is an alternative and that one doesn't interfere with climbers as much.
You can get down on a 50m rope just fine - you have to swing left at the bottom to get on easier rock but it's no big deal.
The area gets a lot of weekend traffic - when it's crowded I prefer to rap over by Hans' Puss since that's all air. Definitely need two ropes for that.
Also thought that the thin flake/groove leading up to the overhang was harder than the traverse itself, but that may just be my skill set.
Great route, I only wish the first pitch was as good as the second. It's not bad, just mediocre compared to P2. It's also worth noting that there is some runout climbing on P1, but not too horrible.
By saxfiend Administrator From: Atlanta, GA Sep 26, 2007 rating: 5.7+
Stellar route; second only to Arrow as my favorite lead this trip! The second pitch is fantastic, but I enjoyed it from top to bottom. NOTE: If you're using the Williams "Select" guide, don't get suckered into following the retarded beta of doing the short scramble up the boulders as a separate pitch.
i would call this a somewhat serious route for the grade (2nd pitch). not the thickest flake, slippery crux moves, and your last piece below the flake is a ways (mine was at least, there is a good chance i wasn't paying attention and missed some). maybe not the best route to break into the grade, but a very good route none-the-less.
RSS Feed
Slideshow
