Jean Aschenbrenner on the second pitch of Maria (5...
Description
Another classic moderate with three varied pitches.
Follow the approach directions for City Lights. Maria starts 25' right of City Lights, at a crack in a white block. The start is the same as Frog's Head.
P1: Climb Frog's Head until just past the crux bulge. Place pro for your second, then traverse about 35' right on thin face, with little pro, to a large, left-facing corner. 5.6, 80'.
P1 variation: It's possible to start the traverse right just below the crux bulge on Frog's Head instead of just above it.
P2: Climb the steep corner to the GT Ledge. 5.6+, 90'.
P3: Climb a corner to an overhang, turn the overhang on the left via a crack, and continue to the top. 5.6+, 50'.
Descent: Rap back to the GT Ledge, and move climber's left to a bolted rap anchor. Two more rappels take you to the ground. The last rap anchor is on the face left of the second-pitch corner of Maria.
The overhang on P3 is rated 5.6ma in my personal rating system. 5.6+ is the traditional Gunks rating so I can't fight that but anyone trying to work the move on lead for the first time will probably call it 5.7+ or so.
(5.6ma = 5.6 my ass)
And IMHO, mucking around with raps on this part of the cliff is a waste of time and an annoyance for all around you - especially as the rap route crosses right through the P1 traverse. Walk down left to the Uberfall. It takes all of 5 minutes.
Another P1 variation, Maria Direct, is also well worth doing. At 5.9, it ascends from the ground, well right of the standard start, to the large left-facing corner that lies at the end of the long P1 traverse.
By Adam Catalano From: Albany, New York Mar 28, 2006
If you're climbing Gunks 5.9, the direct start is the way to open this incredible climb. Got to be honest, I stick clipped the pin to start, but the opening moves were a lot easier than I thought (at least to get to the pin). Next time I won't bother. Two more committing moves before you get your next piece and then it backs way off. Waiting for parties to clear off Frogs Head is a bummer; just one more reason to go Direct.
I felt the 1st pitch traverse protected quite well. There was a large horizonal crack that I followed at about shoulder height that allowed me to place gear virtually at will. My second was shaky at 5.6, so I really made sure to protect it well, placing a piece every 6-10 feet.
We were almost tempted to just rap off when we hit the GT ledge since the bolts were right there. Don't do it! The last pitch, while only 50 feet, really caps off the experience!
Direct start definitely the way to go; third pitch mandatory. Get a big nut as far out in the lip as you can. I heard someone came off and broke ankle swinging into wall. The overhang is very big. (Maria Redirect, next crack right from start, is excellent toprope but awkward to rig. 5.10+ technical shallow laybacks.)
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