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Feast of Fools 

5.10b

   

FA: Russ Raffa & Mark Robinson - 1977
Type: Trad
Consensus: 5.10b [details]
Length: 2 pitches, 250 feet
Views: 2,219 page views

Submitted By: Josh Janes on Feb 23, 2006


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Jeff Arliss pulling the first roof on Feast of Foo...


Description 

Feast of Fools begins near the same corner and roof system of Nurse's Aid and Hans' Puss.

P1: Begin just right of the start of Hans' Puss (the rightmost, steepest corner). Climb this ever-steepening corner system until you reach the first of several roofs. Pull this roof and step left to a rest. Pull the second roof into an overhung corner protected by a pair of fixed pins. Creative stemming and reaches will get you to easier terrain (joining with Hans' Puss here) which is followed around the corner of the buttress to the right and belay at two bolts. A great pitch. 5.10b, 75'.

P2: Not really worthwhile -- the crux section (a few moves of 9++) are cool, but the pitch doesn't get a lot of traffic and isn't that good. Head up off the belay to the small roof band above. Breach the roof with fingerlocks into a narrow, left-facing corner. Belay at an oak tree on the GT ledge. 5.10a, 70'.


Protection 

Standard Rack.



Photos of Feast of Fools Slideshow Add Photo
Rich Goldstone starting the 8- or 9-ish moves up to the roof.

Rich Goldstone starting the 8- or 9-ish moves up t...

Rich Goldstone reaching the thumpy pancake flake. From here you can hand traverse right all the way to the nose (easiest) or pull directly over the roof. Standing on the flake is spooky.

Rich Goldstone reaching the thumpy pancake flake. ...

Rich Goldstone resting after getting the gear at the crux. There's a key fixed pin with not much backup. The crux is getting stood up in the corner above Rich's highest gear. Fast Food climbs the roof directly to where Rich is, and then continues up the groove and over the black roof diagonally up and left from Rich.

Rich Goldstone resting after getting the gear at t...

Finishing the crux. Note the screamer on the pin.

Finishing the crux. Note the screamer on the pin.

Jeff Arliss nearing the first roof.

Jeff Arliss nearing the first roof.

Jeff reaching for the lip of the first roof, which looks shaky but feels solid.

Jeff reaching for the lip of the first roof, which...

Mike From The Gym (probably not his correct name...) above the first roof and a few feet below the two pins.

Mike From The Gym (probably not his correct name.....

Mike at the crux.  The pins are behind his waist.

Mike at the crux. The pins are behind his waist.

Mike nearing the end of the crux, a few feet above the pins.  It was a nice on-sight.

Mike nearing the end of the crux, a few feet above...

Jeff on the last move of P1.

Jeff on the last move of P1.

Dan Ling

Dan Ling


Comments on Feast of Fools Add Comment
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By Ivan Rezucha
Feb 23, 2006

Josh's description of P1 is a little misleading. It sounds like you hand traverse right at the first roof and around the corner. Actually. You hand traverse right a few moves (too far right is cheating), pull the roof then angle left on steep and poorly protected rock to small ceiling leading into an inside corner. Getting into that corner is the real crux, and is very awkward. Above this is another bulge at which you traverse straight right to the belay. The photo of Rich Goldstone above the first roof makes this all clear.

Josh also doesn't mention the third, easier pitch from the GT ledge to the top.

By Josh Janes
Administrator
Feb 24, 2006

Sorry Ivan, after doing a zillion Gunks routes in the course of a year, my memory is hazy. Your photos bring it back though, and I edited the description accordingly.

By Mike fenice
From: Boulder, CO
Jul 17, 2006

This is a great tough lead and placing gear is very pumpy. I wouldn't leave my #4 Camalot on the ground...? Watch out for the pins at the crux; they're junk. One is definitely better then the other, but still junk.

By Risi
Nov 5, 2007

P2 doesn't see much traffic, but is absolutely clean, nice and technical. The short corner tests different skills than the first pitch and is well worth of climbing.
The beginning of the corner is protected nicely by nuts, then it is a small runout until the 9ish moves are over. The lower angle face below the corner is where you land if you fall. Not a bad fall, but be ready not to sprain your ankles needlessly (still, it IS a PG).

By Paul Hunnicutt
From: Boulder, CO
May 1, 2008
rating: 5.10b

I used two small cams - green and yellow alien, then also a .4 BD below the first roof. I got a solid #3 BD below the crap pins...a #4 would certainly work and offer more possible placements, but one #3 seemed sufficient for this route.

By Rui Ferreira
Nov 18, 2008

A 0.5 flexible Friend backs up the pins. It slots in vertically about three inches above and to the left of the upper of the two pins.

I found the pitch to be well protected bottom to top.

By paulmadry
Aug 6, 2009
rating: 5.10b

Do 2nd pitch. I do not know why guidebook does not recomend it. Great stemming 5.10a second pitch.

By gblauer
From: Wayne, PA
Aug 16, 2009

I seconded both pitches. P1 is sustained and pumpy, but, the holds are great and even this shorty had little difficulty pulling the roofs. P2 is more technical but equally entertaining. Although short, it is a good pitch.