Dede reaching for the key crimp at the crux on P2.
Description
This is one of those destination climbs at the Gunks. There are also other classic moderates in the same area (Three Doves, Annie Oh!, and Limelight).
The Arrow access trail is just past some white rocks on the left side of the carriage road, at an open area with a good view of the valley. This is about a 13-min. walk from the Uberfall, and a 9-min. walk from where the East Trapps Connector Trail meets the carriage road.
At the cliff, spot the huge left-facing corner of Easy Verschneidung on the right; scramble up on ledges about 20' left of Easy V to start.
P1: Follow face and crack systems up and slightly left to a ledge system under a roof. You will notice a set of rap anchors to your right. 5.6, 100'.
P2: Angle right through the notch in the roof. After a few hard tugs, you will be below a beautiful white slab. Follow this slab passing 2 bolts on the way to a final headwall. The crux reach is protected by a final bolt. 5.8, 100'.
Rap twice with a single 60M rope from bolt anchors.
70M rope beta: You can combine both pitches for a great 215' lead.
Can anyone give an definitive answer to this question: Left or Right at the final bolt? To the right feels easier to me, but maybe I'm missing the "key crimp" when I make the move to the left...
By Guy Humphrey From: Fort Collins CO Jun 30, 2008
If you go slightly left of the final bolt, there is key crimp. If I remember correctly, you mantle and rock up for a long reach with the right hand. You can see the crimp in the first photo on this page. It is directly under the rope.
By saxfiend Administrator From: Atlanta, GA Jul 1, 2008 rating: 5.8+
When I led it, I went right; if I recall correctly, I found a small sidepull to the right and rocked up on that to reach the ledge. Since I haven't made the move to the left that Guy describes, I can't say which is harder.
Afterward, I did ask Richard Goldstone (my partner for the day) if I'd been off route by going right. He told me he and some other long-time Gunks climbers got on Arrow one day to see how many different ways there were to make the crux move; they came up with 26. Heh!
Great route! Just did it 3 days ago. The crux at the final bolt took me four tries. I tried the left twice and didn't make it, then went over to the right and checked out the moves there. The chest high bulge made it feel awkward. The left seemed to me like the only choice, most likely because it's one of the hardest things I've climbed. I put my left hand on the "potato chip," my right hand on the low crimper and my right toe on a little knee-high chip and levered up, lifting my left foot up to a small slopey ramp, then slapping my right hand high for an edge. Then I could bring my right foot up to a solid, almost palm-sized ledge and I was home. Great.
To the right of the bolt is 5.8. To the left is 5.8 Gunks. ;-) Cheating beta for left move... Bring your right foot up almost directly below the bolt where there is a small foot placement. Mantle off your left hand which is palm down on the obvious hold to your left. Squirm up and reach the crimper with your right hand.
Brian is right. The key foothold definetly makes the difference. You can't totally see it once you commit to the crimp but if you miss it this climb will feel grades harder.
I spent what felt like an eternity shuffling back and forth across that small ledge trying to decide which side of the bolt to pull the move on...classic!
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