10,000 Restless Virgins 

FA:  Sam Slater & Mike Freeman - 1982 Type:  Trad Consensus:  5.10d [details] Length:  1 pitch, 100 feet Views: 2,191 page views Submitted By: Josh Janes on Feb 21, 2006 Add Photo  Add Comment

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Starting the crux. Early 80s?

Description 

10,000 Restless Virgins is representative of many Gunks climbs as it has a wonderful name (anyone know the story behind it?) and, of course, a challenging roof.

It is located at the far right end of the Trapps, and the start is actually concealed by a massive boulder (Dick's Prick pinnacle) that sits at the base of the cliff. One must scramble down into a pit formed by the boulder and the main wall.

Climb up a crack system and left-facing corner until you are situated beneath the roof. From here pull the roof (crux) up and left, and continue heading up and slightly left to a fixed anchor just over the roof.

This is a great, well-protected climb that is certainly worth the effort to approach. While you're at this end of the Trapps consider climbing Wegetables and Simple Suff -- two other nice climbs in this general area.

Protection 

Standard Rack.

Photos of 10,000 Restless Virgins Slideshow

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Making the first reach. Not too hard if you're tal...	Making the second reach to the horizontal by the b...	In the nice layback/stem corner which doesn't get ...
Making the big reach. (photo by Becky Diamond)	It's a long move, but not impossible for the verti...	Just about through it. There's usually a bit of u...
Below the crux roof. (climber: David Gilbert)	Under the roof - the huge undercling. (climber: Da...	The long reach. (climber: David Gilbert)
The second move after placing gear. (climber: Davi...	Mid crux. (climber: David Gilbert)	Ready for the final move of the crux. Great onsigh...