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The Trapps

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10,000 Restless Virgins 
48 
50-50 
69 
A Long Walk For Man, A Short Climb For Mankind 
Absurdland 
Airy Aria 
Alley Oop 
Almost Pure and Simple 
Andrew 
Anguish 
Annie Oh! 
Ants' Line 
Ape and Essence 
Ape Call 
Apoplexy 
Arc of a Diver 
Arch 
Arch Direct 
Arch to Wrist 
Arrow 
Art's Route 
Asphodel 
Baby 
Badfinger 
Bag's End 
Balrog 
BB Route 
Beatle Brow Bulge 
Beginner's Delight 
Belly Roll 
Betty 
Beyond the Fringe 
Billy Shears 
Birdie Party 
Birthday Biscuit Boy 
Bitchy Virgin 
Blackout, The 
Blistered Toe 
Bloody Bush 
Bloody Mary 
Blueberry Ledges 
Bold-Ville 
Bonnie's Roof 
Boron Destroyer 
Boston 
Bragg-Hatch 
Brat Direct, The 
Bridal Path 
Bunny 
Cakewalk 
Calisthenic 
Carbs and Caffeine 
Casa Emilio 
Casablanca 
Cascading Crystal Kaleidoscope (CCK) 
CC Route 
CCK Direct 
Charlie 
City Lights 
City Streets 
Classic 
Coexistence 
Cold Turkeys 
Columbia 
Comedy In Three Acts 
Commando Rave 
Coronary 
Counterstrike 
Creaky Joints and Trigger Points 
Credibility Gap 
Crimson Corner 
Crusty Waffles 
Dangler, The 
Dennis 
Directissima 
Directississima 
Dirty Chimney 
Dirty Gerdie 
Dis-Mantel 
Double Chin 
Double Clutch 
Double Crack 
Drunkard's Delight 
Dry Heaves 
Dry Martini 
Easy Keyhole 
Easy Overhang 
Easy Verschneidung (Easy V) 
Ent Line 
Erect Direction 
Eyebrow 
Face to Face 
Fall, The 
Falled on Account of Strain 
Fancy Free 
Fancy Idiot 
Feast of Fools 
Fillipina 
Finger Locks or Cedar Box 
Fitschen's Folly 
Footloose 
Friends and Lovers 
Frog's Head 
Frustration Syndrome 
Frustration Syndrome Direct Start 
Funny Face 
Glypnod 
Gory Thumb 
Graveyard Shift 
Grim-Ace Face 
Groovy 
Handy Andy 
Hans' Puss 
Harvard 
Hawk 
High Corner 
High Exposure 
Higher Stannard 
Horseman 
Hyjek's Horror 
Immaculate Virgin 
Interstice 
Into Thin Hair 
Ivan and the Saum 
J'accuse 
Jackie 
Jacob's Ladder 
Jane 
Jean 
Junior 
Katzenjammer 
Keep on Struttin' 
Ken's Crack 
Lady's Lament-Boldville 
Land's End (Direct) 
Last Will Be First, The 
Laughing Man 
Laurel 
Le Teton 
Lichen Forty Winks 
Limelight 
Lisa 
Lito and the Swan 
Lone Ranger, The 
Lost and Found 
Low Exposure 
Lower Eaves 
Madame Grunnebaum's Wulst 
Maria 
Maria Direct 
Matinee 
Men At Arms 
MF 
Middle Earth 
Minty 
Miss Bailey 
Modern Times 
Moonlight 
Morning After 
Mother's Day Party 
Nemesis 
Never Never Land 
Never Say Never 
Nice 5.9 Climb 
Nice Crack Climb 
No Glow 
No Man's Land 
No Picnic 
No Solution 
Northern Pillar 
Nose Drops 
Nosedive 
Nurse's Aid 
Oblique Twique 
Obstacle Delusion 
On Any Monday 
Oscar and Charlie 
Overhanging Layback 
P38 
Pas de Deux 
Patty Duke 
Peregrine 
Phoebe 
Pink Laurel 
PR 
Precarious Perch 
Proctor Silex 
Proctoscope 
Raubenheimer Special 
Raunchy 
Red Cabbage 
Red Cabbage Right 
Red Pillar 
Retribution 
Rhododendron 
Ribless (a.k.a. Spare Ribs) 
Ribs 
Ridicullissima 
RMC 
Rock and Brew 
Roddy 
Scary Area 
Scene of the Climb 
Sente 
Shockley's Ceiling 
Simple Suff 
Sixish 
Sleepwalk 
Snake 
Snooky's Return 
Something Interesting 
Son of Bitchy Virgin 
Son of Easy O 
Sonya 
Southern Pillar 
Space Invaders 
Splashtic 
Spring, The (P1) 
Squiggles 
Squiggles Direct 
Stand, The 
Star Action 
Steep Hikin' 
Sting, The 
Stirrup Trouble 
Strictly From Nowhere 
Suderiferous: 5.8 variation 
Sundown 
Suppers Ready 
Susie A 
Tangled Up and Blue 
Tennish Anyone? 
Tequila Mockingbird 
Thin Slabs Direct 
Three Doves 
Three Pines 
Three Vultures 
Throne, The 
Tipsy Trees 
Tough Shift 
Trapped Like a Rat 
Travels With Charley 
Traverse of the Clods 
Triangle 
Trigger Point 
Triple Bulges 
Trusty Rifle 
Try Again 
Turdland 
Twin Oaks 
Twisted Sister 
Uberfall Descent 
Unamed 
Unholy Wick 
Updraft 
Uphill all the Way AKA The Man Who Fell to Earth 
Ursula 
V-3 
Ventre de Boeuf 
Walter Mitty 
Wasp 
Wegetables I've Never Seen Before 
Welcome to the Gunks 
Wild Horses 
Willie's Weep 
Winter, The 
Wisecrack 
Wonderland 
Wrist 
Yellow Wall, The 


The Trapps


11 people found this page useful
Submitted By: Ron Olsen on Feb 21, 2006
Administrators: JSH, Ron Olsen
Elevation: 1,000 feet
Latitude: 41.7374  Longitude: -74.1867 
Aerial photo/map | Weather
Views: 224,954 page views

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  Print a Mini-Guide - Includes Routes!

The 5.7+ third pitch of Cascading Crystal Kaleidos...


Description 

The Trapps is the largest and most popular cliff at the Gunks. Almost three miles in length, with climbs ranging from 30' to more than 250' high, it is home to many classic climbs of all levels of difficulty, and sports almost 500 routes. It has many exceptional easy and moderate routes, and draws large crowds on weekends during the spring and fall.

The Grand Traverse Ledge (GT Ledge) starts halfway up the cliff near the route Easy Overhang, and runs north (right) with only minor breaks almost the entire length of the cliff.

A gravel carriage road runs the entire length of the cliff, and provides an easy hike below the cliff to get to your route of choice. Access trails, marked with yellow paint blazes, are used to get to the cliff from the carriage road. Once at the proper access trail, your approach through talus boulders to the cliff is no more than 5 minutes long. The hardest thing for new climbers to the Gunks is to find the correct access trail from the carriage road to a desired route. Note the hiking times and the landmarks in the guidebook to find the correct trail. In summer, the cliff is obscured by trees, so it's often difficult to spot the routes from the carriage road. If in doubt, ask someone where to go; the locals are friendly and helpful.

The cliff first rises tall above the carriage road at area known as the Uberfall. Mohonk Preserve rangers sometimes hang out here on weekends, checking to see if climbers have their passes. Water is available from a spring near the Uberfall, and a vault toilet is located nearby. There is a kiosk with a message board here as well.

For most routes around the Uberfall, the Uberfall Descent can be used to downclimb from the top of the cliff to the carriage road. Roger's Escape Hatch, toward the far right side of the cliff, can be used as a downclimb for routes in that area. Many routes have a rappel descent, either from trees or bolted anchors. The Overcliff Road is a trail that runs the entire length of the cliff along its top, and can be followed to the Uberfall Descent or Roger's Escape Hatch to descend.

Some of the classic lines at the Trapps include Beginner's Delight and Three Pines (5.3); Sixish (5.4); Horseman (5.5); High Exposure, Shockley's Ceiling and Madame G's (5.6); CCK and Limelight (5.7); Arrow, City Lights, Son of Easy O, and Modern Times (5.8); Bonnie's Roof, Directissima, and MF (5.9); Directississima, Erect Direction, and Matinee (5.10); Carbs and Caffeine and The Yellow Wall (5.11).

The Trapps has many excellent climbs for all levels of ability.


Getting There 

From New Paltz, take Main St. (Rt. 299 West) to the T-junction with Rt. 44/55. Go right, up the hill.

If you're climbing on the right side of the Trapps, you can park at the Warwarsing lot, just past the Mohonk Preserve Visitor's Center. Take the East Trapps Connector Trail, consisting of many stone steps, up the hill, meeting the carriage road just left of the Strictly From Nowhere access trail.

If you're climbing on the left side of the Trapps, continue past the hairpin turn, up to the top of the hill, and go just past the steel bridge to the West Trapps parking area. From here, the West Trapps Connector trail will take you to the carriage road and the climbs on the left side of the Trapps.

Parking is also available in a lot at the hairpin turn and in a small lot at the top of the hill just before the steel bridge. These lots are posted for 30-minute parking, but this limit is not enforced by local or state police (time-limit signs may have been placed by the Mohonk Preserve). From the lot at the hairpin turn, walk through a hole in the fence to access the East Trapps Connector Trail. This is the shortest and fastest way to access climbs on the right side of the Trapps.


Guidebooks 

The Climber's Guide to the Shawangunks: The Trapps by Dick Williams, Vulgarian Press, 2004, is the definitive climbing guide to the Trapps. Often called the "gray Dick" because of its gray cover, this guide gives detailed info on all climbs and variations in the Trapps. Quality ratings, protection ratings, photos with route overlays, and line drawings showing the access trails make this an indispensible reference for the Trapps climber. Also included are sections on Gunks geology and climbing history.

Other guides:

The Gunks Select, Dick Williams, Vulgarian Press, 1996. Contains the best routes at the Trapps, the Near Trapps, and Skytop. (Out of print).

The Gunks Guide, Third Edition, Todd Swain, Falcon Press, 1995. All-inclusive guide to The Trapps, the Near Trapps, Skytop, and Millbrook.

Check Amazon.com and the New Paltz climbing shop Rock and Snow for these books.


The Classics

Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for The Trapps:
Horseman   5.5     Trad, 1 pitch, 120 feet   
High Exposure   5.6     Trad, 2 pitches, 250 feet   
Madame Grunnebaum's Wulst   5.6     Trad, 3 pitches, 210 feet   
Frog's Head   5.6     Trad, 2 pitches, 160 feet   
Shockley's Ceiling   5.6     Trad, 3 pitches, 275 feet   
Limelight   5.7     Trad, 2 pitches, 180 feet   
Double Crack   5.8     Trad, 150 feet   
Son of Easy O   5.8     Trad, 2 pitches, 170 feet   
Arrow   5.8     Trad, 2 pitches, 200 feet   
Cascading Crystal Kaleidoscope (CCK)   5.8 PG13     Trad, 3 pitches, 250 feet   
Modern Times   5.8+     Trad, 2 pitches, 250 feet   
MF   5.9     Trad, 2 pitches, 180 feet   
Bonnie's Roof   5.9     Trad, 2 pitches, 250 feet   
Directissima   5.9     Trad, 2 pitches, 120 feet   
CCK Direct   5.9 PG13     Trad, 2 pitches, 240 feet   
Ants' Line   5.9     Trad, 1 pitch, 80 feet   
Feast of Fools   5.10b     Trad, 2 pitches, 250 feet   
Directississima   5.10b     Trad, 1 pitch, 200 feet   
Carbs and Caffeine   5.11a     Trad, 2 pitches, 140 feet   
The Yellow Wall   5.11c PG13     Trad, 2 pitches, 125 feet   
Browse More Classics in The Trapps

Featured Route For The Trapps
Jean Aschenbrenner climbing the huge flakes near the top of the first pitch.

Limelight 5.7  NY : The Gunks : The Trapps
Limelight is another mega-classic on this great wall, along with Three Doves, Arrow, and Annie Oh!. Limelight is the easiest, so it may be the best choice for your first climb in this area.The Limelight access trail is just past some white rocks on the left side of the carriage road, at an open area with a good view of the valley. This is about a 13-min. walk from the Uberfall, and a 9-min. walk from where the East Trapps Connector ...[more]   Browse More Classics in NY


Photos of The Trapps Slideshow Add Photo
Mike Amato firing the wild crux of Modern Times.  Can you believe this move is only rated 5.8+?

Mike Amato firing the wild crux of Modern Times. ...

Climber preparing to start the exposed and exciting last pitch of High Exposure, one of the best 5.6 pitches on the planet.

Climber preparing to start the exposed and excitin...

Jean Aschenbrenner on the second pitch of Maria (5.6) on a beautiful fall day.

Jean Aschenbrenner on the second pitch of Maria (5...

Uberfall on the weekend

Uberfall on the weekend

Labor Day near Horseman, 21 people?

BETA PHOTO: Labor Day near Horseman, 21 people?

The entrance to the Traps area from the steel bridge

The entrance to the Traps area from the steel brid...

Looking south on the Trapps wall from the top of the second pitch of High Exposure

Looking south on the Trapps wall from the top of t...

The Trapps (most of 'em anyway)

The Trapps (most of 'em anyway)

Sam Todzia bouldering off the carriage road.

Sam Todzia bouldering off the carriage road.

View from GT on High E.

View from GT on High E.

Skytop from GT ledge.

Skytop from GT ledge.

From Skytop towards Trapps.

From Skytop towards Trapps.

...

...

Undercliff fall colors during Gunks Reunion 2008.

Undercliff fall colors during Gunks Reunion 2008.

Sticking the toss on The Gill Egg

Sticking the toss on The Gill Egg


Comments on The Trapps Add Comment
Show which comments
By Mike Anderson
Aug 3, 2009

The alphabetical listing of routes here is not at all helpful to someone who doesn't have a guidebook (or even those who do). I would prefer the routes listed in order as you hike from the parking lot. In its current form, I find this guide nearly worthless.

By JSH
Administrator
Aug 4, 2009

Mike, I agree, and we're trying to figure out a way to deal with it. The software automatically alphabetizes listings - it's not voluntary, and we can't re-order the listing. Most other climbing areas have natural subdivisions of separate cliffs which get listed to the left, which sometimes leads to individual routes themselves getting buried below 5 levels of clicking. As you know, this natural subdivision is not the case at the Gunks! Any ideas you have would be appreciated - please do post them in the Eastern States forum.

By John Peterson
Aug 8, 2009

Here's the routes from left to right. This is all the routes in Black Dick, with the Williams ratings. I have a version that looks better with table formatting but the table tags got scrubbed.

Short and Simple: 5.7, G
Birthday Biscuit Boy: 5.9, G
Great Wall of China: 5.9, R
Keyhole: 5.7, G
Katzenjammer: 5.7, PG
The Brat Direct: 5.6, PG
Handy Andy: 5.7, G-PG
Easy Keyhole: 5.2, G
Black Fly: 5.5, G
Nice Crack Climb: 5.7, G
Astro Traveler: 5.10+, PG
Short Job: 5.4, G
69: 5.3, G
No Picnic: 5.4, G
Shit or Go Blind: 5.8, G-PG
Sudoriferous: 5.2, G
Suderiferous: 5.8 variation: 5.8-, G
Heel, Hook, and Hack-It: 5.10-, R-X
Herdie Gerdie: 5.8, PG
Dirty Gerdie: 5.9-, PG
Red Cabbage: 5.9-, G
Red Cabbage Right: 5.10, PG
Friday the 13th: 5.8, R
Fancy Idiot: 5.6, PG
Bunny: 5.4, G
Retribution: 5.10, G
No Solution: 5.12, X
Nosedive: 5.10, G
Double Chin: 5.5, G
Something Scary: 5.10, PG-R
Eyebrow: 5.6, PG
Double Clutch: 5.9+, G
Gill's Boulder Problem: 5.12-, R
Ralph's Climb: 5.8 A3, PG
Sonya: 5.10b, G
Doug's Roof: 5.11+, G
Bridal Path: 5.7, PG
Horseman: 5.5, G
Pony Express: 5.6-, PG
Apoplexy: 5.9, PG
Coronary: 5.10, R
Dirty Chimney: 5.0, G
Junior: 5.9+, R
Laurel: 5.7, G
Clover: 5.7, G-PG
Rhododendron: 5.6-, G
Birch: 5.10+, PG-R
Das Wiggles: 5.3, PG
Shitty Mitty: 5.11-, PG-R
Walter Mitty: 5.8, PG
Low Exposure: 5.10+, G
Squiggles: 5.4, G-PG
Dislocation: 5.9, R
Squiggles Direct: 5.10, R
Devine Wind: 5.12-, TR
Jacob's Ladder: 5.10, X
Crowberry Ridge: 5.6, PG
Hudson's Boulder Problem: 5.11-, PG
Uberfall Descent: easy 5th, G
Susie A: 5.10+, R-X
The Flake: 5.1, PG
Ken's Crack: 5.7, G
Phoebe: 5.10, R-X
Boston: 5.5-, PG
Charlie: 5.10-, TR
Fitschen's Folly: 5.8, R-X
Alphabet Arete: 5.10+, PG
D. D. Route: 5.10, R
C. C. Route: 5.7-, PG
The Star Route: 5.4, G
Crimson Corner: 5.0, G
Yale: 5.3, PG
Eyesore: 5.6, G
Harvard: 5.2, G
Trapped Like a Rat: 5.7, G
Cilley Dicken': 5.12-, PG
Stirrup Trouble: 5.10, PG
The Mohel: 5.12-, TR
P38: 5.10, G
Radcliff: 4, G
Badcliff: 5.10-, PG
Dennis: 5.5, G
Belly Roll: 5.4, PG
Roddy: 5.2, PG
Daydream: 5.8, PG
Jackie: 5.5, G
Classic: 5.7, PG
Pink Laurel: 5.9, G
A-Gape: 5.11-, PG
Ape Call: 5.8, PG-R
Ape and Essence: 5.9+, PG
Jane: 5.8, PG-R
RMC: 5.5-, G
Raubenheimer Special: 5.7-, PG
Betty: 5.3-, G
The Blackout: 5.8, R
Late Show: 5.12-, PG-R
Into Thin Hair: 5.11, X
Matinee: 5.10+, G
Creature Features: 5.11, PG
Big Chimney: 5.5, PG
Miss Bailey: 5.6, PG
Fetus: 5.9+, PG-R
Baby: 5.6, G-PG
Twisted Sister: 5.8, G
Easy Overhang: 5.2, PG
Queasy O: 5.10-, R-X
Son of Easy O: 5.8, G
Heather: 5.9, R-X
Pas de Deux: 5.8, PG
Patty Duke: 5.8
City Lights: 5.7, G-PG
Frog's Head: 5.6-, G
Maria: 5.6+, PG
Maria Direct: 5.9, G
Sundown: 5.8+, PG
Kama Sutra: 5.12-, R
Sultana: 5.8, PG
Scungilli: 5.7, PG
Jean: 5.9, PG
Precarious Perch: 5.9, PG
Sixish: 5.4+, G
One Blunder and it's Six Feet Under: 5.10, X
Drunkard's Delight: 5.8-, PG
Five Tendons: 5.10+, R
Morning After: 5.8-, PG
Bloody Mary: 5.6, PG
Rusty Trifle: 5.5, G
Arc of a Diver: 5.9, G
Rock and Brew: 5.9, PG-R
Make Haste or Tomato Paste: 5.10, PG-R
Trusty Rifle: 5.9, G
Bloody Bush: 5.7, G
Uncle Rudy: 5.8, PG
Wrist: 5.6, G
Invitation to Hell: 5.10+, PG
Arch: 5.5-, PG
Arch Direct: 5.9, PG
Billy Shears: 5.9-, PG
Vicious Rumors: 5.11+, PG
Ribless (a.k.a. Spare Ribs): 5.6, PG
Ribs: 5.4, PG
Calisthenic: 5.7, PG
Gorilla My Dreams: 5.7, PG
Splashtic: 5.10a, PG-R
Gaston: 5.8, PG
Oscar and Charlie: 5.7, PG
Travels With Charley: 5.8-, R
Splashtic: 5.10a, R
Strictly From Nowhere: 5.7, PG
Epiclepsy: 5.10, X
Shockley's Ceiling: 5.6, G
Mister Transistor: 5.10-, PG
PR: 5.11+, R
Grim-Ace Face: 5.9, PG
No Belle Prize: 5.10, R-X
Hi Coroner!: 5.9, PG
High Corner: 5.5, PG
Glyptomaniac: 5.8+, PG
Glyptodon: 5.8, PG
Nemesis: 5.10-, PG
Midnight Cowboy: 5.9+, R
Glypnod: 5.8, PG
Yesterday's Lemonade: 5.10-, PG-R
Anguish: 5.8, PG
Ruby Saturday: 5.9-, PG
Raspberry Sundae: 5.9+, PG
Simple Ceilings: 5.5, PG
Three Pines: 5.3, G
The Dangler: 5.10, G
Something Boring: 5.9, X
Something or Other: 5.10-, R
Something Interesting: 5.8, G
Higher Stannard: 5.9-, PG
Birdie Party: 5.10-, PG
Interstice: 5.10+, R
Mother's Day Party: 5.10, PG
MF: 5.9, PG
Water King: 5.10+, R
Men At Arms: 5.9, PG
Try Again: 5.10, PG
Fly Again: 5.11+, PG
Coexistence: 5.10+, PG
Star Action: 5.10, PG
Don't Shift: 5.11+, TR
Graveyard Shift: 5.10+, PG-R
Tough Shift: 5.10, R
Overhanging Layback: 5.7, PG
No Existence: 5.9, R-X
Scene of the Climb: 5.11-, PG
Land's End (Direct): 5.9-, PG
The Jane Fonda Workout for Pregnant Women: 5.12, TR
Organic Iron: 5.12+, R
Impenetrable Ceilings: 5.11, PG
Scotch on the Rocks: 5.10+, PG
Dry Martini: 5.7, PG
Tequila Mockingbird: 5.7+, PG
P. T. Phone Home: 5.10+, PG
Co-op: 5.9-, PG
Fall to Grace: 5.11, PG
Welcome to the Gunks: 5.10, PG-R
Laughing Man: 5.11, PG
Tree's a Crowd: 5.9, G
Credibility Gap: 5.6, PG
Asphodel: 5.5, G
Beatle Brow Bulge: 5.9+, PG
Blueberry Wine: 5.10+, R
Blueberry Ledges: 5.5-, G
Seldom Mustard, Never Relish: 5.10, G
Beginner's Delight: 5.3, PG
Octoberfest: 5.9-, R-X
Snooky's Return: 5.8, PG
Friends and Lovers: 5.9, PG
Minty: 5.3, G
Bag's End: 5.8+, PG
Tipsy Trees: 5.3, G
The Womb Step: 5.7, PG
Chimango: 5.9+, PG
Hawk: 5.4+, PG
Peregrine: 5.8, PG
Reach of Faith: 5.10-, PG
Southern Pillar: 5.2, G
Columbia: 5.9-, G
Madame Grunnebaum's Wulst: 5.6, G
Madame Grunnebaum's Sorrow: 5.8-, PG
Le Teton: 5.9, G
Finger Locks or Cedar Box: 5.5, G
Northern Pillar: 5.2, G
Hyjek's Horror: 5.8-, PG
Twin Oaks: 5.3, PG
Triple Bulges: 5.5, PG
Delusions of Grandeur: 5.9+, PG
Willie's Weep: 5.2, G
Don't Shoot: 5.6, G
Lat-On the Season: 5.7, PG
Gleet Street: 5.8, R
Funny Face: 5.5-, PG
Son of Bitchy Virgin: 5.6, PG
Immaculate Virgin: 5.6, PG
Bitchy Virgin: 5.6, R
Unamed: 5.2, G
Dat Mantel: 5.10, PG
Dis-Mantel: 5.10, G
Kernmantle: 5.8, PG
High Times: 5.9+, PG-R
Stop the Presses Mr. Williams: 5.8+, PG
Gory Thumb: 5.8+, G-PG
Raunchy: 5.8, PG
Wild Horses: 5.9, R
Badfinger: 5.9+, PG
Help!: 5.11+, R
Pleh: 5.11+, R
V-3: 5.7, G
City Streets: 5.10, PG
Country Roads: 5.10, PG
Commando Rave: 5.9, PG
Metropolis: 5.11+, PG-R
Beyond the Fringe: 5.9, R
Balrog: 5.10, G-PG
Bullfrog: 5.12-, PG-R
Blind Alley: 5.8, PG
Dry Heaves: 5.8, PG
Alley Oop: 5.7, PG
Cheap Thrills: 5.10, PG
Deep Chills: 5.11+, R-X
Cakewalk: 5.7, PG
Nurdland: 5.10, R
Turdland: 5.10+, PG
Triangle: 5.9-, PG
Nevermore: 5.10, PG-R
Never Say Never: 5.10, R-X
Never Never Land: 5.10-, PG
J'accuse: 5.10, R
Welcome to my Nightmare: 5.10, X
Absurdland: 5.9, PG
Blunderbus: 5.9, R
Wisecrack: 5.6, G
Wiseland: 5.9+, PG-R
Wonderland: 5.8, PG
Faithful Journey: 5.8+, G
Middle Earth: 5.7-, G
Bombs Away Dream Baby: 5.8, G
Journey's End: 5.10-, G
Red's Ruin: 5.2, G
Smegma Garden and Pigeon: 4, G
Snowpatch: 5.5, PG
Sente: 5.9-, PG
Tenta: 5.10, TR
Thin Slabs Direct: 5.7, PG-R
On Any Monday: 5.11-, PG
Snake: 5.6, PG
Talus of Powder: 5.8, R-X
Steep Hikin': 5.8+, PG
Red Pillar: 5.5, G
Deep Lichen: 5.10, X
Hawkeye: 5.9+, PG
Three Doves: 5.8+, PG
Annie Oh!: 5.8, PG
Road Less Travelled: 5.9-, PG
Limelight: 5.7, PG
Arrow: 5.8, PG
Quiver: 5.9, PG
Easy Verschneidung (Easy V): 5.2, G
Cold Turkeys: 5.9-, G
Nurse's Aid: 5.10, R
Suppers Ready: 5.12-, PG
Hans' Puss: 5.7, PG
Feast of Fools: 5.10, PG
Too Old to Know Better: 5.9, R
Proctoscope: 5.9+, PG
Snagglepuss: 5.8, PG
Proctor Silex: 5.9+, PG
Silhouette: 5.7+, PG-R
Man's Quest for Flight: 5.8, PG
Traverse of the Clods: 5.8, PG
Skeletal Remains: 5.11+, X
Twilight Zone: 5.7 A3, PG
The Best Things in Life Aren't Free: 5.12+ A4, PG
Andrew: 5.4, PG
Goldner's Grunge: 4, G
Android: 5.10-, PG
Three Vultures: 5.9, PG
Face to Face: 5.9, PG
No Glow: 5.9, PG
Shell Shock: 5.10+, PG
Wop Stop: 5.11-, PG
Keep on Struttin': 5.9, PG-R
Step Lively: 5.9+, PG
Moonlight: 5.6, PG
Point-Blank: 5.12, R
Erect Direction: 5.10, PG
Crack'n-Up: 5.11+, PG-R
Updraft: 5.5, G
Cascading Crystal Kaleidoscope (CCK): 5.8, PG
CCK Direct: 5.9, PG
Diana: 5.8-, PG
Ken's Blind Hole: 5.6, PG
Unholy Wick: 5.8, G
Lost and Found: 5.7, PG
The Last Will Be First: 5.6, PG
Strolling on Jupiter: 5.10+, PG-R
Exit Stage Left: 5.9, PG
Jim's Gem: 5.8, PG
Modern Times: 5.8+, PG
Psychedelic: 5.8+, PG
High Exposure: 5.6+, G-PG
Beyond Good and Evil: 5.11-, PG
Directissima: 5.9, G
Enduro Man's Longest Hangout: 5.11, R
Ridicullissima: 5.10c, PG13
Directississima: 5.10, PG
Lakatakissima: 5.10, R-X
First Trapps Chimney: 5.3, G
First Trapps Chimney: 5.4, G
Buckets Above: 5.9+, G
First Trapps Chimney: 5.3, G
Obstacle Delusion: 5.10-, PG
Insuhlation: 5.9, PG
Alpine Diversions: 5.8, G
Missing, But Not Lost: 5.4, G
50-50: 5.5, G
60-40: 5.7, PG
Lichen Forty Winks: 5.7, PG
Sleepwalk: 5.7, PG
Ent Line: 5.10d, G
Ants' Line: 5.9, G
Condemned Man: 5.12-, R
The Throne: 5.12-, PG
Bonnie's Roof: 5.9, G-PG
Knockout Drops: 5.11, R
Ursula: 5.5, PG
Nose Drops: 5.9+, PG
Groovy: 5.9-, G
Space Invaders: 5.10+, PG
In the Groove: 5.6, G
In the Silly: 5.3, G
Slipping Into Incipiency: 5.10, R
Silly Groove: 5.9, PG
Silly Chimney: 5.1, G
No Man's Land: 5.11, PG
Tiers of Fear: 5.12, PG
The Yellow Wall: 5.11, PG-R
Scary Area: 5.12, G
Scary Area Direct: 5.12-, TR
Airy Aria: 5.8, G
Carbs and Caffeine: 5.11-, R
Lots of Malarkey: 5.7, PG
Wasp Stop: 5.11+, G
The Sting: 5.11+, PG
Lisa: 5.9, G
Full Face: 5.8, PG
Long Distance of the Lonely Runner: 5.10, G
48: 5.2, G
Vader: 5.10, R
Ventre de Boeuf: 5.9, PG
Uphill all the Way AKA The Man Who Fell to Earth: 5.12-, PG
Where Fools Rush In: 5.11-, R
Double Crack: 5.8, G
Lito and the Swan: 5.9, R
Ivan and the Saum: 5.9, PG
High Jinx: 5.9+, G
Broken Hammer: 5.3, PG
The Zigzag Face: 5.7-, R
49: 5.2, G
Forces of Nature: 5.11, PG
Quien Sabe: 5.10-, PG-R
The Nose: 5.7, PG-R
Lady's Lament: 5.10-, G
Fillipina: 5.9-, G
Boulder-Ville: 5.10, PG
Bold-Ville: 5.8, G
Winterlude: 5.10, PG
The Winter: 5.10+, PG
The Fall: 5.11-, R
The Summer: 5.11+, TR
Spring, The (P1): 5.10, PG-R
Oblique Twique: 5.8, G
Shit Creek: 5.7, PG
Unslung Heroes: 5.10-, PG-R
Los Tres Cabrones: 5.9, PG
Blistered Toe: 5.8-, PG
Torture Garden: 5.8, PG
Last Frontier: 5.10, G
The Yellow Crack: 5.12, R-X
Bragg-Hatch: 5.10+, PG
Kligfield's Follies: 5.11+, PG
Cluney's Jollies: 5.12, R
Simple Suff: 5.10-, G
Techno-Stuff: 5.12-, TR
The Blue Stink: 5.3, PG
Hooky: 5.6-, PG
Yesterday: 5.10-, PG
Tomorrow and Tomorrow and Tomorrow: 5.11, R
Falled on Account of Strain: 5.10-, PG-R
Wet Dream: 5.12-, R
April Showers: 5.11, PG
Golden Showers: 5.11, G-PG
Called On Account of Rain: 5.11+, R
Comedy In Three Acts: 5.11, PG
Drop Zone: 5.12-, R
Pressure Drop: 5.11+, R
Frustration Syndrome: 5.10, G
Frustration Syndrome Direct Start: 5.11b, R
The Stand: 5.11-, PG
Coprophagia: 5.10-, PG
Wasp: 5.9, PG
J. A. P.: 5.10, PG
Expedition to Nowhere: 5.10-, R
Sticky Gate: 5.3, PG
Mud Sweat and Tears: 5.10-, PG
Withering Heights: 5.11, PG-R
Moondance: 5.6, G-PG
Sundance: 5.6, PG
Ghostdance: 5.7, PG-R
Raindance: 5.5, G
Contradance: 5.6-, PG
Roger's Escape Hatch: 3, G
Casa Emilio: 5.2, PG
Creaky Joints and Trigger Points: 5.10, PG
The Devil Made Me Do It: 5.9, R
Almost Pure and Simple: 5.8, G
Strings Attached: 5.12, TR
Casablanca: 5.8, PG
Emilio: 5.7+, PG
Casanova: 5.8, PG-R
Independent Hangover: 5.10+, PG-R
Yo Mama: 5.10, PG
Worp Factor 1: 5.11+, R-X
Interstellar Overdrive: 5.8, PG
Emilietta: 5.3, G
Counterstrike: 5.9, PG
Sudden Death: 5.8+, X
Trigger Point: 5.6, G
Crack of Despondency: 5.4, G
Pfui Teufel: 5.3, G
Four Foot Face: 5.3, G
Thom's Thumb, Left Hand: 5.4, PG
Future Shock: 5.12-, R
Meat By-Products: 5.10+, R
The Numbers Racket: 5.12, TR
Art's Route: 5.9, G
Renaissance: 5.12, PG
Modern Love: 5.13, TR
Thom's Thumb, Right Hand: 5.10-, PG
Ranger's Revenge: 5.5, PG
True Brit: 5.7, G
The Circumcisor: 5.12, R
Bone Hard: 5.12, PG
Death's Head Mask: 5.12+, R
Penal Colony: 5.7, R
Circumcision: 5.7, PG
Prophylactic: 5.11, R
Foreign Lesion: 5.10-, TR
Dick's Prick: 5.6, PG
Penis Colada: 5.8+, X
V. D.: 5.10, PG
Girls Just Want To Have Fun: 5.12+, PG-R
10,000 Restless Virgins: 5.10+, PG
The Lone Ranger: 5.3, G
After the Prick: 5.4, PG
Shut Up and Eat Your Greens: 5.12, TR
Wegetables I've Never Seen Before: 5.10+, PG
Tennish Anyone?: 5.10, PG
Hawaii Five-Ten: 5.10, R
Footloose: 5.8, PG
Boron Destroyer: 5.10, PG
Fancy Free: 5.8+, PG
Headless Horseman: 5.10, G
Crustacean Syndrome: 5.8, PG
Slime World: 5.12-, PG
Swamp Gas: 5.10+, PG
A Long Walk For Man, A Short Climb For Mankind: 5.4, G

By Michael G
Aug 9, 2009

Thanks for your post John, but in response to Mike, I have to disagree. I enjoy the alphabetical listing. It makes it much easier to find a webpage for a particular route. If someone plans on climbing here, they should buy the guidebook and not rely solely on mp.com, anyway.

By John Peterson
Aug 9, 2009

Well, I'm not trying to replace the sidebar. I had a spreadsheet sitting around the I made from Black Dick and I decided to use my super Emacs powers to put hyperlinks on it. Don't try this at home, kids! As far as I'm concerned it's nice to leave this here as a comment and keep the sidebar as is. But the admins can do as they want.

By Jim Sweeney
Oct 18, 2009

John

The 5.8 question marked route just after Boston and Charie is Fitschen's Folly.

By John Peterson
Oct 18, 2009

Strange - looks like the route got deleted from the database.

I've been keeping up with new routes that are in Black Dick. If you add a route that's not on the list send me an email and tell me where it fits. jpeterson@western.edu