A portion of Near Trapps has been closed to climbing MORE INFO >>>
A portion of the Near Trapps has been closed to climbing. This includes land below the cliff to above cliff line and starts approximately at Eenie Meenie and continues south about 200 feet. Climbers are asked to respect the no-trespassing signs and advised to use the access trail marked in orange blazes. This trail starts at the intersection of the Blue trail over the top of the Nears and the first Red trail. Follow the orange blazes east and downhill from this junction to arrive at the far (south) end of the Nears. For more information please view http://www.mohonkpreserve.org/index.php?news
Climb easy 5.5-ish blocks to a pair of fixed pin anchors at the base of the roof crack. From here, a series of jugs, underclings, slopers, and yes, even a few jams will get you to the lip of the roof.
Location
The obvious roof crack right as you enter the Near Trapps.
Protection
The roof had four very fixed stoppers in it as of May, 2009, with one pin at the end. For an anchor, you may want 1-3 camalot, but it is almost easier to untie, walk around and down-aid to clean this thing.