A portion of Near Trapps has been closed to climbing MORE INFO >>>
A portion of the Near Trapps has been closed to climbing. This includes land below the cliff to above cliff line and starts approximately at Eenie Meenie and continues south about 200 feet. Climbers are asked to respect the no-trespassing signs and advised to use the access trail marked in orange blazes. This trail starts at the intersection of the Blue trail over the top of the Nears and the first Red trail. Follow the orange blazes east and downhill from this junction to arrive at the far (south) end of the Nears. For more information please view http://www.mohonkpreserve.org/index.php?news
One of the classic "Land" climbs. And yes, that's the same John Rupley that put up so many climbs in Arizona.
This climb is easy to find - follow the trail to a huge corner (Bird Cage), just before the cliff becomes licheny.
P1: Start at the corner, but work right to a fixed pin and pull a small overhang. Continue up the face (crux) and eventually work a bit right to the arete. Belay at a fixed anchor. 5.8+, 90'.
Many people rap from here but the second pitch is just as good.
P2. Proceed up into a small corner, past some small roofs, to the top. 5.8+, 115'.
Regarding the two responses below; thanks gentlemen. Now, not that I need anymore climbing goals, the "Land" climbs at the Gunks have become one!
By Chris Duca Administrator From: Hinesburg, Vermont Mar 18, 2008
I think a lot of people get confused by this description and comment. When I first started climbing at the Gunks and saw this comment in the Williams guide, I thought it meant the route was short, thus close to the "land". If you look through the guidebook, however, many route names end or begin with the word "land". For instance--"Birdland", "Disneyland", "Never Never Land", "Turdland", "Land's End", "Absurdland", "Land of Milk and Honey"...the list goes on and on. A good goal would be to do all the "land" climbs in the Gunks.
To quote Chris Jones (Climbing in North America), in 1958, "McCarthy launched out on a series of classics, the "Land" climbs, with his Birdland (5.9) and Roseland (5.9)". Later, MaCarthy and Gran put up Never Never Land. Finally, in 1960 they "put in a finale to the Land climbs, Land's End".
Although it was McCarthy that started the "Land" climbs, others continued the tradition and thus the Gunks contain quite a few "Land" climbs, almost all of which are classics.
P1 is always a pleasure, although I always forget the location of the the little white pebble (left foot) for the crux move. P2 is very different from P1, in my opinion the better of the two pitches. Lots of nice moves to a nice roof.
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