A portion of Near Trapps has been closed to climbing MORE INFO >>>
A portion of the Near Trapps has been closed to climbing. This includes land below the cliff to above cliff line and starts approximately at Eenie Meenie and continues south about 200 feet. Climbers are asked to respect the no-trespassing signs and advised to use the access trail marked in orange blazes. This trail starts at the intersection of the Blue trail over the top of the Nears and the first Red trail. Follow the orange blazes east and downhill from this junction to arrive at the far (south) end of the Nears. For more information please view http://www.mohonkpreserve.org/index.php?news
Jean Aschenbrenner climbing the airy arete on the ...
Description
A fun route that will test your chimney and layback technique.
Start about 10' left of Inverted Layback at a left-facing chimney/corner with a big chockstone about 15' up. This is about 75' left of Disneyland.
P1: Struggle to the top of the chockstone, climb up to the corner, and layback (what else?) up to a good belay ledge with a fixed anchor (slings and rings). 5.5, 60'.
P2: Climb up right to the airy arete, pass an overhang, and continue to the top. 5.4, 60'.
The climb can be done in one pitch without too much rope drag.
I've found that a #3.5 Camalot (no longer made) or a #4 Camalot is very helpful on the opening moves of the layback section. You can't place it from the good stance below the crux, but you take a step or two up (before being completely committed) and there's a good constriction. My #4 caught a friend's lead fall in that spot.
By saxfiend Administrator From: Atlanta, GA Jul 18, 2008 rating: 5.6
I thoroughly enjoyed the second pitch, excellent exposed climbing with good pro. Consider it a well-deserved reward after the unpleasant grunting that's necessary to get through the first pitch.
P1 is a good, interesting challenge for the 5.5 leader. Chimney can be avoided by bouldery (spot), 5.7+ start up nose/face to left of the chimney. P2 (5.3/G) is awesome for a beginning leader; beautiful rock, great exposure and a fantastic photo op.
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