Disneyland 

Long runners are key. I recall doing this a while back in 1 pitch with a beginner rack with only 2 slings and having enormous drag issues at the top of this climb. Despite this, nice climb.

Double ropes, although still calling for extending placements, make this an excellent one-pitch climb. If you have occasion to try the whole route in one pitch, it's a great place to hone your double rope technique.

Very nice lead, and doubles are definitely a plus. I was a little concerned about finding a placement to protect the belay anchor starting off the second pitch, but found a great slot for a gold Ballnut.

I think this is also the route where I found a copperhead staring out at me from the horizontal where I was planning to place a green Camalot on P2. I ran it out instead.

JL

In the spring of 1978 I took a friend up Disneyland for his first climb. He managed the first pitch okay, but ran out of gas on the second. Another friend who was with us came up the easy path from the north and joined me at the belay atop the route. He had a six-pack which we began while our pal thrashed on the face below. (He claimed his jeans were too tight to make a high foothold.) After a few minutes it was clear he couldn't finish the pitch, so we tried dragging him up. He was pretty heavy and we were laughing too hard too make much progress--we'd lift him a few feet then crack up, lose our grip, and drop him. He wasn't very happy. Defeated, I tied him off and we relaxed with our beers, enjoying the view while he swore at us. We encouraged him to rest and recover his strength; he swore louder. Then we heard rustling in the woods behind. A very large guy and his girlfriend appeared. I offered him a beer if he pulled on the rope. "I was in the Marines!" he declared, and swiftly drew our friend up to large holds. The Marine happily went on his way with a cold one and our pal, scowling and scraped, struggled up to us. He declined an opportunity to top rope Dirty Gertie.

It makes no sense to belay in the notch following the awkward mantle. Instead, move up into the open book/corner above and belay from there on a bomber piton backed up with nuts. You can then extend down to a better stance which allows you to watch your second on the face below. Really great climbing if you have your logistics sorted out.

Long runners. One pitch. Long runners!

All of the belay stances are sucky - avoid them! There's also communication issues. If you're on top it's really hard to hear someone at the belay above the mantle. Much easier if they are on the ground and can walk out to where they can see you.

One of the best routes in the Gunks but it definitely gets more than it's share of gumbys. I was standing at the bottom once waiting for the belayer to leave the stance. Nothing was happening other than shouts that neither one could figure out. Walked up to the top and there was a guy sitting there at a complete loss - he had dropped his belay device and didn't know how to set a belay without it. They would have probably been up there all night if I hadn't come by!

Fun climb, though the Swain guide has two photos of the route, and one is incorrect. The incorrect photo shows the climb going left at the third roof, whereas the route traverses right at this point.

Double ropes make this a good one-pitch route.

If you feel like extending most of your pro and running it out, doing it as one pitch with a single rope works just fine. Nice route!

I think the crucial part about extending is this: once you've done the mantle and made a move left, turn back and manually flip your rope towards you over the roof below. Makes the upper stuff much nicer.