Peterskill

Looking at rap station above Psycho Crack.

Description 

A "miniature Gunks", Peterskill has the same type of rock (quartzite conglomerate), the same type of routes (filled with roofs and horizontal cracks), and uses similar gear--but is only one pitch high. It's the perfect place to get used to leading/seconding, TRing, and learning to build gear anchors. There is an access trail that runs along the entire top of the cliff with several places to descend to a similar access trail that runs along the bottom of the cliff; getting up top to set up a TR anchor is extremely easy.

Peterskill is home to the globally-rare Ridgeline Dwarf Pitch Pine - in fact, it's one of the largest stands of Pitch Pines in the United States; consequently, Minnewaska State Park has declared the Pitch Pines as protected, and not to be used in any way as part of an anchor. If you don't know what a Pitch Pine looks like, then don't use ANY coniferous (pine) trees, just to be safe. Also, any tree used in an anchor should be padded in some way to protect against rope damage. Failure to comply with these rules can and will result in the closing of Peterskill to climbing.

Nearly every anchor in Peterskill is gear; there are a scant handful of double-bolted anchors, but they're the exception. Also, since most of the trees closest to the cliff edge are Pitch Pines, it's important to bring along enough static line/webbing to reach back to the allowable trees. The anchor bolts exist due to the efforts of some of the guide services; they're the ONLY ones allowed to put in anchor bolts. Please do not add any without proper authorization.

The nicest thing about Peterskill--aside from the Gunks-quality rock and ease of access--is the fact that Minnewaska Preserve limits the number of climbers allow on-site to 70 per day, including bouldering. This tends to prevent the crowds you'll see at the Gunks. Get there early, or risk being turned away.

There is a thin guidebook available; check at Rock & Snow. Unfortunately, the guide doesn't have several of the new routes listed. There were plans to revamp the guidebook and include new pictures and the new routes; however, that has stalled and shows no signs of reviving.

New for 2007 - Peterskill is offering, for the first time, season passes. They'll cost $65 per person, and are good from April 1, 2007 through the end of the season (usually early December, but it depends on snow/ice conditions). A day pass is still available, and will cost $7. However, your Mohonk Preserve season pass still will not work at Peterskill, and your Peterskill season pass won't work at the Trapps - different management. Also new for 2007 is that the number of people allowed in has changed. Effective this season, they will now allow 70 climbers AND 30 boulderers, instead of 70 people total. Lastly, when you leave for the day - especially if you leave early - check out at the booth. This will 1) help the management keep track of who might still be out on the rock if someone goes missing, and 2) allow another climber in, if the max for the day has already been reached. For each climber that leaves, they'll allow another in.

Getting There 

Peterskill is located approximately 1.4 miles past the West Trapps Parking Area for the Gunks; continue along 44/55 past the Trapps lot, and you'll see the Minnewaska State Park - Peterskill Climbing Area sign on your right. From the parking lot to the cliffs is no more than a few minutes walk; even at the furthest climbing wall, you're not more than 10 minutes from the parking lot.

The Classics

Featured Route For Peterskill

Circuit Breaker 5.10  NY : The Gunks : ... : Breaker & Very Blocky Walls

I haven't climbed this one, including it for completeness sake. I've heard people say that it's fun....[more]   Browse More Classics in NY