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The Gunks


19 people found this page useful
Submitted By: Ron Olsen on Feb 18, 2006
Administrators: JSH, Ron Olsen
Elevation: 1,000 feet
Latitude: 41.7360  Longitude: -74.1910 
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Jeff Arliss pulling the first roof on Feast of Foo...


Description 

The Gunks (short for Shawangunks) is one of the premier climbing areas in the country. Located near New Paltz, NY, the Gunks is about 85 miles from the NYC metropolitan area, making it a popular weekend destination. The rock is quartz conglomerate, solid rock with horizontal rather than vertical cracks. Climbing at the Gunks is characterized by roofs, jugs, traverses, big air, and "sporty" pro. The Gunks is famous for great one-to-three-pitch climbs of all levels of difficulty. You'll find some of the best easy and moderate trad climbs in the country at the Gunks. There are a few bolted climbs at the Gunks, but no sport climbs.

The ratings at the Gunks are stiff; beware of a climb with a "+" at the end of its rating. Climbs like Thin Slabs Direct (5.7+), Something Interesting (5.7+), Modern Times (5.8+), Broken Sling (5.8+), Le Teton (5.9+), and Coexistence (5.10+) will seem like sandbags to many climbers. Climbing overhanging rock, even with jugs, requires endurance and commitment. Most climbers new to the Gunks drop down a few grades in their first leads to get a feel for the rock, the ratings, and to learn how to place pro in the horizontal cracks.

The best time to climb at the Gunks is during the fall: September and October are the prime climbing season. Mid-October brings the fall colors to the area, and climbers will have to vie with "leaf peepers" for restaurants and places to stay in New Paltz. Climbing in the spring is also popular, but tends to be wetter and more buggy. Summer is hot and humid, and winter offers few climbable days. New Paltz weather forecast

The Gunks is one of the oldest climbing areas in the country. Fritz Wiessner first climbed at the Gunks in 1935, and he and Hans Kraus put up many classic routes in the 1940s. High Exposure, established in 1941, remains one of the most exposed and exciting 5.6 routes any climber will ever do, and should be on every visiting climber's tick list.

Most of the Gunks is part of the Mohonk Preserve, a land trust dedicated to preserving and protecting the northern Shawangunk Ridge. Climbers must pay a $15 daily fee (up from $10 last year) to climb at the Gunks, or else buy an annual pass for $85. Stop at the Visitor's Center, on Rt. 44/55 on the way to the Gunks, for more information.


The Cliffs 

The main cliffs at the Gunks are The Trapps and The Near Trapps. The Trapps is several miles long, and ranges in height from 30' to over 250'. A convenient gravel carriage road traverses under the cliff for its entire length, and designated access trails climb from the carriage road through the talus to the cliff. Access to most climbs at the Trapps involves hiking along the carriage road for 5 minutes to an hour, followed by a short hike up to the rock. Some of the climbs on the left end of the Trapps start right off the carriage road.

The Near Trapps is also a popular destination, with climbs ranging in height from 30' to 200'. While not as extensive as The Trapps, the Nears offers many excellent routes with short approaches. The near (north) end is most popular, but there are good climbs farther down the cliff as well.

Millbrook is more remote and offers adventurous climbing for those wanting to get off the beaten path. This area is frequented more by Gunks locals than first-time visiting climbers.

Sky Top has many classic routes, but unfortunately is officially closed to climbing, since it is on property owned by the Mohonk Mountain House, an exclusive and expensive resort. Needless to say, few climbers stay here!
UPDATE: As of April 1, 2007 (yes, but it's not a prank), there will be LEGAL climbing at Sky Top once again - IF, and only if, you are an overnight guest of the Mountain House AND you climb with their appointed guide service, Alpine Endeavors. It's Mohonk's property, and they make the rules; right now, that's the way it stands. Regardless, it's a huge step forward for climbing legally at Sky Top; there's never been commercial guiding allowed at Sky Top until now, and Sky Top itself has been closed for over ten years.

Peterskill, in Minnewaska State Park, is another popular Gunks climbing destination, offering single-pitch climbs, top-roping, and bouldering. Follow directions to The Trapps and continue on Rt. 44/55 for about a mile past the steel bridge to get to the park entrance. A separate admission fee is charged.

Two other Gunks climbing areas, Lost City and Bonticou, are undocumented by local tradition. Climbing here is by word of mouth; go with a Gunks local or perhaps get information at Rock & Snow, the local climbing shop in New Paltz.

Tick lists of classic Gunks routes: gunks.com Must-Do Routes

Bolted rap stations in the Gunks: gunks.com Rap Stations


Climbing Gear 

Due to the abundance of horizontal cracks and the limited number of vertical cracks, most Gunks routes have "PG" protection: adequate but not great. Many gear ratings were applied before small cams were invented; but take pro where you can get it. The horizontal cracks are great for small Tricams: the pink and red are especially useful. Small-to-medium cams with flexible shafts also work well. The green, yellow, gray, and red Aliens are staples of a Gunks climber's rack. Additional cams, up to a #2 or #3 Camalot, are usually carried. Climbs rarely need pro larger than 3". Hexes are not often carried, but sometimes work well. Fixed pro is sometimes available, but many of the pins are "old and rusted and shouldn't be trusted". Bring a screamer or two for the questionable pin or bolt.

A "Standard Rack" for the Gunks:

  • a set of micronuts (RPs, HB offsets, BD micro stoppers) - very often useful for 5.10 and above.
  • a set of wired nuts (#3-#13 BD Stoppers or equivalent)
  • pink, red, and brown Tricams (some climbers double up on the red)
  • blue, green, yellow, gray, and red Aliens (or equivalent)
  • #.75, #1, #2, and #3 Camalots (or equivalent)
  • 10-12 extendable runners (24" sewn slings)
  • 1 or 2 long runners (48" sewn slings or rabbit runners)
  • A Yates Screamer

Additional gear that is useful on some climbs:

  • extra cams in the .5" to 2" range - very useful for new Gunks leaders
  • a very small cam (black Alien or equivalent)
  • a large cam (#4 Camalot or equivalent)
  • a set of Trango Ball Nutz (#1, #2, #3). There are several 'new' moderate routes in the Nears, put up by Dick Williams and partners, which rely heavily on Ball Nutz for protection; caveat emptor.
  • larger Tricams (purple #2, black #2.5)
  • medium-sized hexes (BD #6-#8)

The amount of gear that you carry will depend on the climb, your experience, ability, and familiarity with the route and with the Gunks. If you're new to the Gunks, err on the side of taking a little more gear rather than a little less.

Many routes can be climbed and rappelled with a single 60m rope. Double ropes can be handy, however, with the traverses, wandering pro, and roofs encountered on the typical Gunks climb, and come in handy to descend in fewer rappels. Some experienced climbers like to use a 70m rope and run pitches together; be careful to prevent rope drag if you do this. If climbing with one rope, be sure to bring many extendable runners.

Many popular routes have bolted rap stations, but sometimes trees are used for rap anchors. Bring some webbing along in case you need to beef up a sling anchor on a tree.

Two-way radios can be useful for communicating past the big roofs often encountered on Gunks climbs. High Exposure, Disneyland, and especially Shockley's Ceiling are routes where radios can be much more effective than shouting.

Visit Rock & Snow, the local climbing shop, at 44 Main St. in New Paltz, for all your gear and beta needs.


Getting There 

By Plane

The out-of-state climber may want to fly into Newark Liberty International Airport (EWR), La Guardia Airport (LGA), or Stewart International Airport (SWF), rent a car, and drive to New Paltz.

Newark Liberty to New Paltz: 97 miles, 1 hour and 39 minutes.
Directions from Newark Liberty Airport to New Paltz Hostel

La Guardia to New Paltz: 87 miles, 1 hour and 38 minutes.
Directions from La Guardia Airport to New Paltz Hostel

Stewart International Airport is the closest commercial airport to the Gunks. The airport is a quiet regional hub; you rarely have to wait in line, and you can arrive at the airport less than an hour before your flight. Connections to and from here may be limited, however.

Stewart International to New Paltz: 22 miles, 28 minutes.
Directions from Stewart International Airport to New Paltz Hostel

More on arranging transportation: Getting around

By Car

To get to New Paltz: take the New York State Thruway (Interstate 87) to exit 18 (New Paltz/Poughkeepsie). Pass the toll booth and go to the first traffic light. Turn left at the light onto Rt. 299 West. Follow 299 several miles into New Paltz, where it becomes Main St.

To get to the Gunks from New Paltz: continue on Rt. 299 for 7 miles until it intersects with Rt. 44/55 (The Brauhaus, Bistro and EMS are at this intersection). Turn right and continue about 1.5 miles up the hill to reach the Mohonk Preserve Visitor's Center. Stop here for maps, information, and to buy daily or annual passes (you can also get passes from the rangers on the carriage road). The Warwarsing parking area, which provides convenient access for climbs on the right side of the Trapps, lies just beyond the Visitor's Center. The West Trapps parking area, used to access the left side of the Trapps and the Near Trapps, lies up the hill, beyond the big hairpin turn, just past a steel bridge. There are also parking areas at the hairpin turn, and at the top of the hill just before the steel bridge, but these are posted as 30-minute parking only (may or may not be often enforced by the local or state police, depending on season and mood).

By Bus

Trailways has a bus terminal in New Paltz, right next to the New Paltz Hostel, but it's most convenient to have a car to get to the cliffs.
139 Main St.
New Paltz, NY 12561
800-776-7548


Where to Stay 

Also see Rock & Snow Places to Stay

HOSTELS and MOTELS

New Paltz Hostel is located near downtown and right next to the bus station. A variety of accommodations is available for $30/person/night. Free internet access and a shared kitchen are part of the amenities. Reservations recommended for weekends. Off-street parking is available.
145 Main Street
New Paltz, NY 12561
845-255-6676

87 Motel is the cheapest motel in New Paltz. Older, on the edge of town, it is suitable for the budget-minded climber.
403 Main Street
New Paltz, NY 12561
Local - 845-255-9220
Toll free - 800-879-8787

Super 8 of New Paltz tripadvisor.com rates Super 8 as the best motel in New Paltz.
7 Terwilliger Ln.
New Paltz, NY 12561
845-255-8865

Rodeway Inn and Suites People seem to like the suites, but it has gotten mixed reviews.
601 Main Street
New Paltz, NY 12561
845-883-7373

Econo Lodge gets bad reviews from tripadvisor.com
530 Main St.
New Paltz, NY 12561
Local - 845-255-6200
Toll free - 800-424-4777

Bed and Breakfasts are available if you want a more 'romantic' getaway, or just space to lounge around in. B&Bs start around $100+/night (call around) per couple for lodging and breakfast. Because the Culinary Institute is nearby, most B&B breakfasts are quite a feast! Given that even the econo-lodges are $80/night and up without food, B&Bs can be a reasonable option, especially for cooler days when the sun sets early.

Mohonk Mountain House is great if you've just won the millionaire lottery!

CAMPING

NY State DEC Multi-Use Area is located on Route 299 just a half-mile from Rt 44/55 in Gardiner. Camping is free, but there are no amenities or reservations. Get here early during the busy season. For more info, contact
DEC Regional Office
South Putt Corners Road
New Paltz, NY 12561
845-256-3024

Trapps Camp (aka Camp Slime) Located in the Mohonk Preserve, near the steel bridge. It's a bare-bones site in the woods with a depressing quality; recommended only to climbers on a severely limited budget. Contact the Mohonk Preserve for more info.

Yogi Bear's is an RV-style family campground in Gardiner, at 50 Bevier Rd.

Creek View in Rosendale seems to change ownership and open status frequently, so call ahead. It has (pay) showers and can be noisy, but it's usually quieter than the MUA.


Where to Eat 

New Paltz is a college town (the State University of New York has a campus here), with many excellent bars and restaurants. Many local chefs are graduates of the Culinary Institute in Hyde Park, so expect to eat well here!

Main Street Bistro, 59 Main St.: great place for breakfast.

Bacchus is the original climber's haunt, with 14 beers on tap and hundreds more in the bottle. The food is all excellent, and the menu varies widely between bar fare like nachos, to tuna tartare.

The Bakery, 13A North Front St.: another great breakfast place.

The Bistro Mountain Store AKA The Bistro: Great inexpensive breakfast foods and a climber's hangout. They do not have tap water to fill up your bottles, however. At the junction of Rt. 299 and Rt. 44/55.

Gilded Otter, 3 Main St.: a great brew-pub for after-climbing drinks and dinner.

Mountain Brauhaus, Corner Route 299 & Route 44-55: authentic German food.

Oscar's is in Kerhonkson, about 10 minutes past the steel bridge on Rt. 44-55, and is well worth those few minutes. Comfortable atmosphere and inventive cuisine, with local beer on tap.

P&G's, 91 Main St.: excellent pub food and beer.

Main Course, 232 Main St.: eclectic gourmet fare.

Lemon Grass, 125 Main St.: spicy Thai food.

Cookies and Cream, 11 Main St.: after-climb ice-cream cones.

There are lots of other great places to eat and drink in town; see Rock & Snow Places to Eat, and newpaltz.org restaurant list for more info.


Other Resources 

See gunks.com and Rock & Snow for lots of good info. The Gunks Climbers' Coalition is the local climber advocacy group. The Uberfall has photos with route line overlays for climbs in the Uberfall area.


The Classics

Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for The Gunks:
Gelsa   5.4     Trad, 3 pitches, 195 feet   The Near Trapps
Horseman   5.5     Trad, 1 pitch, 120 feet   The Trapps
High Exposure   5.6     Trad, 2 pitches, 250 feet   The Trapps
Madame Grunnebaum's Wulst   5.6     Trad, 3 pitches, 210 feet   The Trapps
Disneyland   5.6     Trad, 2 pitches, 155 feet   The Near Trapps
Shockley's Ceiling   5.6     Trad, 3 pitches, 275 feet   The Trapps
Frog's Head   5.6     Trad, 2 pitches, 160 feet   The Trapps
Yellow Ridge   5.7     Trad, 2 pitches, 200 feet   The Near Trapps
Limelight   5.7     Trad, 2 pitches, 180 feet   The Trapps
Son of Easy O   5.8     Trad, 2 pitches, 170 feet   The Trapps
Arrow   5.8     Trad, 2 pitches, 200 feet   The Trapps
Cascading Crystal Kaleidoscope (CCK)   5.8 PG13     Trad, 3 pitches, 250 feet   The Trapps
Modern Times   5.8+     Trad, 2 pitches, 250 feet   The Trapps
Ants' Line   5.9     Trad, 1 pitch, 80 feet   The Trapps
MF   5.9     Trad, 2 pitches, 180 feet   The Trapps
Directissima   5.9     Trad, 2 pitches, 120 feet   The Trapps
Bonnie's Roof   5.9     Trad, 2 pitches, 250 feet   The Trapps
Directississima   5.10b     Trad, 1 pitch, 200 feet   The Trapps
Carbs and Caffeine   5.11a     Trad, 2 pitches, 140 feet   The Trapps
The Yellow Wall   5.11c PG13     Trad, 2 pitches, 125 feet   The Trapps
Browse More Classics in The Gunks

Featured Route For The Gunks
A few moves past the roof crux on Birdie Party.

Birdie Party 5.10b  NY : The Gunks : The Trapps
Pitch one climbs a crack up and traverses right to a thin, tweaky crack, continuing up past a short right-facing corner. Above you there are bolts; if you clip 'em put a long runner on it, 'cause your about to head right. Way right, on an exciting ride. There is a pointed flake out there in the distance ... head that way, and when you get there don't forget about your second! Continue along the exciting hand traverse across the flak...[more]   Browse More Classics in NY


Photos of The Gunks Slideshow Add Photo
The 5.7+ third pitch of Cascading Crystal Kaleidoscope (CCK), an airy and exposed Gunks classic.<br /><br />Photo by <a href='/u/michael_amato/11870'>Michael Amato</a>.

The 5.7+ third pitch of Cascading Crystal Kaleidos...

Climber on Doubleissima, a 5.10 Gunks classic.

Climber on Doubleissima, a 5.10 Gunks classic.

Matinee, P1, 1976 approximately. Photo by (I think) Hardie Truesdale, now a successful landscape photographer. Classic! Flip-flop stoppers (2 on a single cord so that you can flip one over the other as opposing wedges), 2" red swami, home-made leg loops, green Shoenards (stiff like cinder blocks), all ovals, and, of course, painters pants.

Matinee, P1, 1976 approximately. Photo by (I think...

Mike Amato firing the wild crux of Modern Times.  Can you believe this move is only rated 5.8+?

Mike Amato firing the wild crux of Modern Times. ...

Derek underneath the first crux roof on Shockley's Ceiling (5.7)<br /><br />A cropped version of a photo submitted by Denis O'Connor.

Derek underneath the first crux roof on Shockley's...

Tricia Fusco approaching the P1 crux of Bonnie's Roof (5.9)<br /><br />Cropped version of a photo by Denis O'Connor.

Tricia Fusco approaching the P1 crux of Bonnie's R...

At the 5.7 crux on the last pitch of Yellow Ridge.  Yes, there's an easy line past the overhangs!<br /><br />Photo by <a href='/u/michael_amato/11870'>Michael Amato</a>.

At the 5.7 crux on the last pitch of Yellow Ridge....

A climber moving into the corner on Horseman, one of the best 5.5 routes anywhere.

A climber moving into the corner on Horseman, one ...

Climber preparing to start the exposed and exciting last pitch of High Exposure, one of the best 5.6 pitches on the planet.

Climber preparing to start the exposed and excitin...

The swimming hole.

The swimming hole.

Autunm is not a bad time to visit The Gunks. Coloradoans like me kinda miss the trees in fall color anyway. Photo by Tony Bubb, early October, 2003.

Autunm is not a bad time to visit The Gunks. Color...

Fall in the Gunks- once past the power lines, it is really pretty. Photo by Tony Bubb, 10/03.

Fall in the Gunks- once past the power lines, it i...

View of Mohonk Mountain from Butterville Rd

View of Mohonk Mountain from Butterville Rd

Benny Bach on, of course...the boxcar.....

Benny Bach on, of course...the boxcar.....

Castle point, NY

BETA PHOTO: Castle point, NY

Troy Sexton near the top of CCK Direct.

Troy Sexton near the top of CCK Direct.

Skytop from the Trapps

Skytop from the Trapps

Jay Peterson (age 8) bouldering, Dec 26 2001.

Jay Peterson (age 8) bouldering, Dec 26 2001.

Lost City on left.  Skytop in background.

Lost City on left. Skytop in background.

Nice colors.

Nice colors.

Scrambling up to Bonticu.

Scrambling up to Bonticu.

At Duck Pond.

At Duck Pond.

Looking out of the Lemon Squeeze below Skytop.

Looking out of the Lemon Squeeze below Skytop.

Millbrook, the Gunks

Millbrook, the Gunks

An early lead of Super Crack of the Gunks. Photo: Bob Horan Collection.

An early lead of Super Crack of the Gunks. Photo: ...

Skip Guerin leading Kansas City, Gunks. photo: Bob Horan Collection

Skip Guerin leading Kansas City, Gunks. photo: Bob...

Brian on Andrew Problem

Brian on Andrew Problem

a quick tick of Marrakesh

a quick tick of Marrakesh

Black Boulder Problem, sent after a generous skin donation

Black Boulder Problem, sent after a generous skin ...

Another Gunks Sunset!

Another Gunks Sunset!

Jekich latching onto the final jug of Susie A.

Jekich latching onto the final jug of Susie A.

Split Rock

Split Rock

A rock above the GT ledge only held up by the tree!

A rock above the GT ledge only held up by the tree...

Local Wildlife

Local Wildlife

Local Wildlife

Local Wildlife

Local Wildlife!

Local Wildlife!

Local Wildlife

Local Wildlife

Local Wildlife

Local Wildlife

If you're not on a legit site @ the MUA, Ranger Rob will wake you up @ 7am and tell you to move...which is perfect timing to start a day of Gunks climbing! (JK RR)

BETA PHOTO: If you're not on a legit site @ the MUA, Ranger Ro...

Here is one of many fun moderate lines up the Bonticou cliff. I exited the V to the left.

Here is one of many fun moderate lines up the Bont...


Comments on The Gunks Add Comment
Show which comments
By John Peterson
Feb 21, 2006

That's $15 for a day pass now - $10 is so last year.

And it's "Quartz Conglomerate"; see http://csmres.jmu.edu/geollab/Fichter/SedRx/Rocks/Congqtsand>>>>>.

By Josh Janes
Administrator
Feb 22, 2006

There are some great swimming holes near the cliffs to cool off in mid day. Split Rock, about two miles down Clove Road, which is just past the bridge and West Trapps parking area, is a popular one.

There's also a decent farmer's market halfway between the cliffs and town on the south side of Rt. 299 that has a good selection of fresh produce and goodies.

...and one other thing that all Gunks climbers should keep an eye out for are copperheads. They generally won't strike unless they're provoked, but they are everywhere and hard to see -- especially once the leaves start to fall.

By Harold Lampasso
From: Colorado Springs
Mar 2, 2006

I am from NY and used to climb @ the Gunks all the time. How crazy is it now? Before I left NY they had started enforcing all kinds of rules it was also insanely busy; like being @ a gym. I saw many a squabble over who was next on line for certain classics like High E, but sure do miss the climbing there.

H
now from Colorado Springs

By steve p
From: Scotia, New York
Mar 5, 2006

I think the scene has calmed down a little. Been climbing there for 11 years. The parking is way better now (remember the Hairpin lined with cars????) There's a real toilet (NPS style) near the Uberfall, there are a bunch of shiny bolts now for anchors and rap stations (can you believe that??). The crowds are still there on the weekends for sure. I'm seeing more and more people on the weekdays now too. Very rarely do I run into an individual or party who is bent on ruining my day, most climbers there now are pretty casual. What I enjoy about the area is seeing familiar faces, meeting new people, sharing a belay ledge, working together to make a rappel quicker/easier for the whole group. That's part of the experience for me. Come on back, you'll be glad you did!

By Harold Lampasso
From: Colorado Springs
Mar 6, 2006

That's good to hear. I do miss lunch on the GT ledge. Can't believe they rap anchors and bolts there. Did they put anchors on the rap from Madame G's? If I remember that was a free hanging rap. That was a blast!! (Although it doesn't surprise me. I used to teach climbing in a gym and would be scared to see people I taught how to tie in and belay a week or so later there w/ shiny new gear!!!)
I miss the Gunks grease after a day of climbing there. One of these days I'll make it back there and back up to NH to climb again on Whitehorse and Cathedral.

By steve p
From: Scotia, New York
Mar 7, 2006

Madam G's, Snookys, Frogshead, Classic, High E, Arrow, etc. all of these and more high-traffic routes have bolted rap stations. (Check out gunks.com or rockandsnow.com for the bolt locator page for a full list). As well as a few newer protection bolts placed here and there. Still way TRAD though, just safer and easier on the trees.

By Scotty Nelson
From: Boulder
Oct 4, 2006

Question: is it too cold to climb at the Gunks during Thanksgiving?

By Taino
From: South Salem, NY
Jan 19, 2007

Generally, yes - of course, it all depends on your personal tolerance for cold weather. This year, it was fine; last year, it was COLD.

By Monomaniac
Administrator
From: Morrison, CO
Oct 16, 2007

I've only climbed here a few times, but I just spent a day there, and my overall impression was: practice mantling before you come here. Most of the routes have several mantle moves, and often a mantle move is the crux. Must be due to all the horizontal breaks.

Also, bring lots of slings. Many routes can be done in one mega pitch if you mind the rope drag.

By slim
Jun 8, 2009

A couple of quick notes from a recent trip where we didn't have a rental car. We were able to catch a ride to Slime, so no big deal there. It is an easy walk down to the hippy mart, ems store (very friendly guy and a good selection for how conveniently close is was to the cliff), and to the german restaurant (good beer, gunks burgers were tasty).

There is a new paltz web page with transportation info. on this webpage, my wife found a link with info for a guy who will drive you down to the city. This worked great as we were able to climb in the morning, he picked us up at slime at 2pm, and we were able to easily catch our 5:30 flight out of Laguardia. I think it cost about $220 or so for the 2 of us, which between time and cost seemed a slam dunk versus dealing with getting to a bus, etc.