Arete Style Dysfunction  5.13a

2,934 page views Good page? (1 like)

Type:  Sport, 70 feet Consensus:  5.13a [details] FA:  James Otey, 10/08/10 New Route:  Yes Submitted By:  James Otey on Oct 8, 2010 You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (1) Your todo list: Your stars: Your rating: -none- [change] Your ticklist: [add new tick]

Justin on the low crux

Add Photo  Add Comment    Printer View

Description 

Formerly known by the descriptive name "The Black Arete," Arete Style Dysfunction is perhaps the most stunningly aesthetic and difficult line in Little Falls.

Start by romping up some easy terrain, making the first two clips and then swing around to the right of the arete for a few moves. Make a super tenuous swing back left to the face proper and make a cruxy third clip. From here, the buisiness begins: Use an atrociously small left hand crimp and get a high left foot, eventually bumping all the way up to a small crimp (V7ish in itself). Without resting, mount the second crux by using froggy foot technique on impossibly small holds until the large slopey horizontal can be had (V5/6)...phew! From there the climbing is technical mid-eleven crimping that feels way harder after pulling the difficult, thoroughly pumpy moves down low. Clip the chains and enjoy the uniqueness of Little Falls ambiance...

The line had been climbed before on toprope by a variety of people over the years, but wasn't bolted until September 20th 2010. Two holds broke over the last year, upping the difficulty a notch. The first one is is a left hand crimp in the second crux that got smaller. The second one is the massive rest jug midway up- it's now a sloper that makes resting a lot more difficult. Due to some difficult clips, leading the route is noticeably harder than top roping it.

We can all thank Eric Kuenstner for the genius name...

Location 

Smack dab in the middle of the Dihedral's main face.

Protection 

8 Bolts. A double draw is helpful on the 2nd clip, and a long sling is helpful on the 3rd clip.

Photos of Arete Style Dysfunction Slideshow

Add Photo

The pumpy technical crimps looom above as Justin f...	Tenuous 5.11 moves up top	Justin up high
She bites back...the work of the crux left hand cr...	Justin on Arete Style Dysfunction. Photo by Mike O...	Arete Style Dysfunction on the left. Photo by Rafi...
Bearing down on crux 2 of Arete Style Dysfunction,...	"Rest" sloper Photo by Becca Weingarten	More hard moves post rest Photo by Becca Weingart...