Access is limited in the spring and summer due to peregrine falcon nesting; so there are some closures. Checking with the Adirondack Climbers Coalition or the NYDEC can provide the closure status.
Access is limited in the spring and summer due to peregrine falcon nesting; so there are some closures. Checking with the Adirondack Climbers Coalition or the NYDEC can provide the closure status.
BETA PHOTO: First pitch of Paralysis 5.8 (II)
Description
This climb is past Bloody Mary at the far northern end of the cliff. It follows a right leaning ramp/crack system and then traverses right for a couple hundred feet with a very heady third pitch. One could rap down from the second or third pitch without leaving gear.
The first pitch starts at the top of a large block which can be approached from tne north side with some third class. It follows the right leaning ramp/crack system to the overhanging roof that caps this section of the face. From here you traverse right for a pitch to an alcove. Another traversing pitch takes you underneath an airy roof to a good ledge. From here follow the overhanging crack. Although improbable it is not as hard as it looks. Do not try the shallower dihedral up and right. It's not anywhere in the 5.8 range.
Protection
A set of nuts and cams would get one through this easily. There are some fixed pins at the second and third pitch anchors. No anchors at the top.
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