Sunny Side (Right End)

Overview of the Sunny Side (Right End) with routes...

Description 

The Sunny Side is one long cliffband, but by convention, it is described as two separate crags. The right half of the cliff is known as the "Sunny Side", and the left side is known as "The Dig".

The right end of the Sunny Side offers the best rock and climbing at the Tunnel, with a number of high quality 5.12s, and several 5.13a's. Most routes are slightly overhanging and crimpy at the start, vertical with big jugs in the middle, and slabby with unnerving slopers at the end.

This crag faces slightly west, and depending on the season, gets anywhere from 1 hour to half a day of shade (less shade closer to winter solstice).

From Right to Left, routes are:
1. Burn Baby Burn, 5.11b
2. Dehydration, 5.10d
3. Biggus Diccus, 5.12d
4. Melanoma, 5.12d
5. Sunspot, 5.12c
6. The NIMBY Factor, 5.13a
7. Jump Start, 5.12a
8. Sun Burn, 5.12a
9. Cinco Trinta, 5.13a
10. Heat Stroke, 5.11c (shares start with #11)
11. Heat Stroke Straight Up, 5.12b
12. MLK, 5.13a
13. Right Dihedral, 11d (shares start with #14)
14. Left Dihedral, 5.12a
15. Open Project, needs bolts
16. Open Project
17. The 5.14, 5.14a

Getting There 

The approach to the Sunny Side deposits you smack dab in the center of this cliff.

The Classics

Featured Route For Sunny Side (Right End)

Jump Start 5.12a  NM : The Tunnel : ... : Sunny Side (Right End)

This excellent line is likely the best 12a on the Sunny Side, climbing aesthetic, high quality orange limestone. The route begins with a difficult, thin crimping boulder problem to reach obvious jugs 8 feet up. Alternatively, if you're tall (or have mad-hops), you can always go for the 'jump start'. A few moderate moves lead to more thin crimps, then a powerful, long reach from an undercling to jugs below the 3rd bolt. From here wander left t...[more]   Browse More Classics in NM