BETA PHOTO: View from the rim at the parking spot above the cr...
Description
This mostly east facing basalt crag was discovered as Bob D and I took a hike in the Spring of 2007. We were shut down from finishing work at Vista Verde by a series of spring storms so we placed anchors and started TRing the easier lines. Bob immediately recognized the potential. A nice collection of quality climbing on iron hard pocketed basalt. There is something here for everybody and a few more to come. From vertical to overhanging jug-hauls, to technical corners, powerful roofs and thin fingers. Mostly sport, some mixed and a few classic trad pieces in sound, clean stone. Set above the "Rock Garden" of the Rio Grande Box, this area is surrounded by climbing areas, rafting, fishing, camping, and mountainbiking all about 20 miles from the town of Taos. Expect solitude, which means low traffic and no chalk marks.
Celebrating the spirit of escapism, independence and defiance many of these route names honor the visionaries, artists, authors and crazies that saw a Utopia in Northern New Mexico's Vistas.
These are new routes and they might still give up a hold or two so a helmet is recommended.
Getting There
See Dead Cholla under Taos Area or click the Aerial Photo link above for driving instructions to Dead Cholla parking area. From the well signed Dead Cholla parking area...head up river (North) along the edge of the cliff band.
From the Dead Cholla (trailhead for the West Rim Trail) parking, it's about 15 minutes along the West Rim Trail to the wash on the rim -- if you continue past there to where the power lines cross the gorge, you've gone too far (maybe half again too far).
If you time the walk -- at 6 minutes from the car, the trail makes its first significant bend east toward the rim before bending back north; there is a second one of these at 9 minutes. When you hit the third such bend at 15 minutes, you are there -- look for a pullout on the right just as you come over a rise (the rim of the wash).
Drop southerly (right) along the wash to the rim, and follow cairns left (north) along the base of the Upper Tier, then, as Bob says, pretty much straight downhill from Black Mamba, the pretty black-streaked corner. The trail goes down past the juniper and deposits you at the south end of the lower cliff."
The other closer parking option (please be low profile and use 4WD so as not to get stuck) involves a slippery jeep trail that starts from the junction of the West Rim dirt road and the paved road from Carson. At the junction, take the dirt two track following the telephone lines toward the gorge (please avoid using the private gravel drive). Continue on the dirt double track to the gorge rim and turn south on a spectacular jeep trail. Go about a mile to a cairned pull out on left. The descent wash is straight ahead.
The Classics
Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Utopian Vistas:
Beautiful open book stemming corner. Solid rock with variety of athletic moves to 2 bolt anchor. One of the best routes at the grade at UV....[more]Browse More Classics in NM
Thanks again, Bob. If you need any help with any of this development, I would be more than happy to help. Otherwise can't wait to climb it when it's complete.
Much better directions Matt, and thanks for the "Viva!", we were pretty inspired by the locale and Taos history as well. Can I quote you in the directions? Glad to hear you enjoyed it. Bob and Jay should take the credit for the vision, I just drill holes where they point. Joel Tinl and Thor Husted were also fruitful out there and there is some more to do. Ask Jay about some of the other things he has been working on. Bueno-bye, Mike
Not true Mike! This area was very much Mike and Bob's vision and hard work. I was handed a route or two on a silver platter. Matt, glad to see you've been back in the 505/575. Let's hook up soon.
By George Perkins Administrator From: Los Alamos, NM Dec 6, 2008
Thanks for sharing this place- Bob, Mike, Jay- and for your time and work in making it what it is. This is a wonderful area. After some more traffic the rock will clean up a bit more; already I think this area ranks above some of the other Taos Gorge crags and many of the White Rock cliffs as far as quality basalt climbing in my opinion. Makes you wonder how many more cliffs like this there are another mile or two up the gorge...
By George Perkins Administrator From: Los Alamos, NM Dec 7, 2008
Hi Mike- Roger and I made it up there yesterday- really impressed. I'm hoping to go again Friday or this coming weekend. The photo with the routes really helped. We were confused a little bit, but having the climbs numbered really helped to figure it out. I added some comment/captions to the beta photos to try to make it easier; definitely go ahead and edit them if you feel like it, or if you renumber the climbs. Again- great place- today I climbed at The Overlook in White Rock.. seems like Utopian Vistas is taller and just as fun. Ah well- the Overlook is 15 minutes from my home and has a shorter approach... -George
Great to hear. We have been extending the area to the North and put up some great (IMO) climbs on the next shorter (50-60 ft) wall. Yeah, that numbering thing can be a PIA, particularly if you keep adding routes in between. But, the rock does climb well, certainly has that outdoor gym feel. And the location is classic New Mexico. Although it's not 15 minutes out the back door I think you'll agree it might warrant the carbon. Thanks for all the comments/help. Bueno, Mike
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