This climb, the rightmost of the 3 bolted routes on South Rock is another overlooked climb at Tres Piedras, with excellent pro, good rock, and fun climbing.
Cruise up 5.8 good rock with good horizontal holds, placing some pro, and clipping some bolts, as you pass through some overlaps. The crux is a steep section up high, with bolt protection and a few tenuous moves through a bulge. As with many climbs at TP, move left or right a few feet as it feels appropriate so as to find the easiest passage.
As with the bolted climbs to the left, pro is excellent and abundant, so this is an excellent choice for someone breaking into the 5.9 grade at TP.
Location
This is the right of the 3 bolted lines on the south face of South Rock. This climb begins just left of the obvious crack climb Eagle's Nest.
This is Unknown climb #6 in Taos Rock.
A common anchor for the 3 bolted climbs is reached by this route, and a single rope rappel gets you down.
Protection
4 bolts protect most of this route, but you'll likely want to place some of your own gear- nuts, and small cams (from TCUs up to #1 camalot) should suffice.
By Daniel Trugman From: Los Alamos, NM May 9, 2009 rating: 5.9-
Great climb and certainly one of the highlights of my first visit to TP. Lots of fun, edgy 5.7 and 5.8 leading to a few 5.9 moves up high. I brought C4s up to .75 with no nuts and would probably do the same thing the next time I get on it.
RSS Feed
