Begin about 20 feet left of Serpentine Crack. Head up and then left to a bolt (stopper protects). Thin face up and left (crux) leads to a horizontal. From here you wander right and up and left and up and right passing more horizontals (thin gear necessary in these) and three more bolts. A little runnout getting to the last (4th) bolt (but not too hard). From the last bolt, head right and then up to reach a two bolt anchor/rap (100++ feet) which is shared with Serpentine Crack.
Location
This face climb wanders up the section of rock about 20 feet left of Serpentine Crack and about 20 feet right of Better Red Than Dead.
Protection
Four bolts, stoppers and thin cams to 1 inch. Slings and draws.
By George Perkins Administrator From: Los Alamos, NM May 2, 2008 rating: 5.10c
Excellent climb- arguably the best 5.10 at TP.
It's too bad the guidebook calls this climb 'R' - it probably keeps people off of this very enjoyable route who otherwise would really have a blast. It is no more runout than the rest of the Mosaic Rock routes (of those 5.10 or easier).
Near the top, the guidebook suggests you angle right on big holds past a tiny pine tree (and skip the 4th bolt which is to the left).
1 60m rope reaches on rappel, doesn't quite just barely reach if lowering through the gear.
I am generally scared off the R's at TP but I will say this route is all there, for a full value route finding/creative pro classic. You can get a so-so piece below the first bolt in the wet horizontal which might stay put if you don't fall on it. Don't cheat yourself with the toprope.
I felt the gear was pretty good on this route. Tri-cams and brassies should sow it up. Freaken great climb. Needs a face lift (three years ago).
By George Perkins Administrator From: Los Alamos, NM Jul 19, 2009 rating: 5.10c
Re: "Needs a facelift (three years ago)." All the bolts looked good on this climb today, and seemed ok when I led it last year. It's fine now, not sure when it was upgraded or by whom (thanks by the way). Edit: heard rumors Taos climbers upgraded these bolts a while ago. Thanks guys.
RSS Feed
