Cruise up low angle slab with few features to the tiny pine bush (or traverse in from the right). From the left side of the bush, climb the crux of quality flakes with just enough creatively discovered protection (creative nut placements especially!) and intriguing moves and reach a 2 bolt anchor on a ledge. You can belay here, lower to the dirt, or keep going and link into the 2nd pitch. Traverse up and right into a left-facing corner. Ascend this a short ways, then fire straight up using the biggest mama jug you've ever seen.
Any historical/ FA info is appreciated.
Location
Toward the left side of the S face of Mosaic Rock, identify the small (dying) pine tree just left of the exquisite and steep Mosaic Wall, above low slabs. Mama Jugs proceeds up from here. To descend: follow the standard walk off to the east.
Protection
Trad rack of 1 set nuts, perhaps including RPs, and cams from TCUs up to 3". Bigger cams are useful, but not mandatory, to set a belay at the top. It is also possible to climb only 1 pitch to the 2-bolt anchor 2/3 up, and return to the ground from here with a single 60m rope.
By Jason Halladay From: Los Alamos, NM Sep 23, 2007 rating: 5.8
Mmmm...mama jugs! C3s, 000 and 00 specifically, along with tiny nuts, are nice on the first pitch of this route. Can be done as one long pitch with a 70m rope (probably even a 60m) but look out for rope drag.
An excellent route! Follow the line made by the pine tree propping the wall up and the tiny pine bush directly above it. The pro is somewhat thought-provoking, but didn't require any micronuts.
You can climb this entire route in 1 pitch, ground to top of the cliff, with a 60 meter rope. Rope drag will have to be well managed. Not clipping or extending a sling on the bolt anchors before traversing right proves helpful.
By Jason Halladay From: Los Alamos, NM May 7, 2009 rating: 5.8
Oh yeah, if this route is your proj the key holds are heavily tick marked as of last Saturday so go send it now!
Yes, I'm being sarcastic...I was blown away to see the ticks on the obvious and gigantic plates on this route last Saturday. Definitely unnecessary.
By Daniel Trugman From: Los Alamos, NM May 9, 2009 rating: 5.8
Crux for me definitely was the mantle on top of the eponymous "mama jug". If belaying up a shaky second, make sure you place a nut in the thin seam a few feet above this; if you don't, a fall for them could mean a mama pendulum!
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