I recently learned, from an elder Tres Piedras climber, that back in the olden-days (before the bolt line went in), they used to climb a line in the area of Gila Monster that was led on gear. Apparently it started a little to the right (basically the start of the 5.8 crack to the right) but then continued up the gray water streak, then traversed left along the horizontal/overlap (between current bolts 3&4), and then finished somewhere up to the left (up the crack or face, that wasn't clear). He didn't say how hard it was, but it sounds and looks bold. It was proposed by my informant that this old line may have been the one called "Crack n' Friction" in the typewritten guide; but I have some doubts about that, because "Crack n' Friction" was supposed to be a 5.5. There's at least two other cracks that may match the description of "Crack n' Friction" to the right of Zorro, maybe 30-50 feet farther right of there. Anyone know the actual location of this old Crack n' Friction line?
By Daniel Trugman From: Los Alamos, NM May 9, 2009 rating: 5.9
Classic friction on bullet rock. Sustained from the 2nd bolt til the easy runout below the chains.
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