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Questa Dome
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Another Pretty Face 
Bear Mountain Picnic Massacre (Original 5.8) 
Johnny Questa 
Question of Balance 
Tostadas con Questa 

Tostadas con Questa 

5.10 PG13

   

FA: Paul Horak and David Baltz
Type: Trad
Consensus: 5.10 [details]
Length: 5 pitches, 500 feet, Grade II
Views: 391 page views

Submitted By: George Perkins on Jun 29, 2008


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Description 

Tostadas con Questa is likely the easiest of the climbs on the main portion of Questa Dome. Still not to be taken lightly the crux is somewhat runout over 1/4" bolts; and there are some other tricky sections, like every climb at Questa. Some people don't like this climb too much considering that other alternative climbs at Questa are especially good.

Pitch 1: Follow easy cracks right of the big right-leaning right facing corner on the east end of the main face. (5.6) Belay in the corner below the first stepped roof.

Pitch 2: This pitch follows clean slabs to the right of the main dihedral. Climb up to the roof, undercling and traverse right. Climb up to the 2nd roof, undercling and traverse right and head up to a 2 bolt chain anchor (visible from below) below a steep slab. Excellent climbing with unique moves on this pitch, and the traversing might be a little scary for those who aren't used to slabs (5.9+). These 1st 2 pitches can be combined with a 60m rope if you pay attention to avoid rope drag.

Pitch 3: Climb clean slab straight up (potential to fall onto belay), passing 2 1/4" bolts to a diagonaling seam (crux, 5.10b PG13; the bolts appear ok, but if you're scared of 30-year old bolts you won't like this part). It's a little spacey between the bolts but not bad by TP/Questa standards. When you reach the seam, small wired stoppers provide pro. Follow this seam up and right and over a bulge until it opens to a hand crack, which has a tricky 5.10- section with another 1/4" bolt (which you can supplement with gear). Reach a stance belay with some webbing and rap rings. A variation of these last two pitches stays in the right-leaning crack and bypasses the previous belay station- this variation looks bushy.

Pitch 4: Continue up the right angling crack to a big alcove below the obvious roof. Short pitch (5.8). You can continue a little higher and find a more awkward belay if you want to, but if you keep going, you won't reach a good belay ledge without simulclimbing.

Pitch 5: Follow cracks out to the right, bypassing the big roof, until the cracks appear to end in an overhanging slot. Step left on a ledge about 15' below this slot, pull through on steep chickenheads and plates (5.9, PG13). Belay soon up ahead. Easy 5th class on big knobs to the top.

Walk off the east side. If you're thinking of downclimbing, keep walking uphill and north to get to the faint trail.


Location 

Tostadas begins just right of the obvious right facing corner near the right side of Questa Dome. It follows slabs and cracks that angle to the right from this feature.


Protection 

Cams up to #4 camalot, with doubles from fingers to thin hands sizes, plus nuts.
Long runners and/or double ropes highly recommended to minimize rope drag.
Most bolts on this climb are 1/4" originals; if those scare you- bring a hand drill and upgrade them!