Bear Mountain Picnic Massacre (Original 5.8) 

Peronally I think the crux is the move around the bulge on pitch 1, which is 5.7 with so-so pro. The final pitch is steep, the pro is pretty much all slinging of chickenheads, and there's the amazing airy step-around to get onto the headwall... but the climbing is so bloody easy. I give the final pitch a 5.7 with a + for airiness. Without a doubt the last pitch makes the climb.

The descriptions here and in Foley are just vague enough to keep the routefinding spicy (which is, of course, the nature of backcountry climbing). But, I did waste a fair amount of time puzzling out the bottom pitches, which are brushy and sort of convoluted. If you want a few more tidbits of beta for the 5.8 route, read on. If you don't, then don't read on.

The cairned climbers' trail takes you to a ledge at the base of a slab, with a rock fin behind you; the fin pinches into the slab farther to the left. P1 starts on this ledge, in the crack system immediately left of the 2" diameter tree at about eye level. Foley and MP.com suggest P1 is a 'slab', but this is not strictly slab (i.e., friction) climbing (which caused me some confusion in identifying the start of P1). You actually follow the vertical cracks and fissures up and left of the tiny tree for a while before getting to the bulge. Above the corner system, you pass a 6" diameter bent tree (maybe this used to have slings on it?) and then another little sapling, and just past that is a decent stance for a semi-hanging belay on gear (or, if I understand Foley correctly, he says you can try to make it to the slung rappel tree up higher? but that seems like it would be a real rope-stretcher even with 60m).

On P2, get to the big slung rappel-station tree and continue up, not 45' right as directed by Foley. ~30' up, and then ~30' right will take you to the expansive sloping belay ledge at the left edge of the arete. Gear anchor here.

P3 is straightforward once you find the base of the arete. Beware, if you wander left near the top, it gets thin and runout (scary fun!).

Descent: A 2-bolt anchor at the top of P3 sports a bunch of tat slings and cord (and a screw-link that I backed up with a locking biner). Plan for possibly having to replace some sling. A 2-rope rap (145' according to Foley) takes you to the slung tree on P2. This slung tree may also occasionally need tat removal/replacement, and has a screw-link and a locking biner. Another 2-rope rap from here (minimum 165' according to Foley) takes you to the base of the climb. 60 m ropes will set you down exactly where you started, with no rope to spare.

The excellent final pitch does make the climb. More chickenheads than you can shake a sling at!

I'd say that the crux involved protecting and getting into the final finger/hand crack.

I think it could be done in two pitches (i.e. same way as the rappel). It would probably be a good test of your rope management skills, though.

The above comment of "spicy routefinding" is exaggerated in my opinion, as I found the description in 'Taos Rock' to be plenty good enough, with a photo showing where to go. There are a few options for the 1st pitch; but none of them are going to get you far off-route on difficult/unprotected ground. Chris is right- pitch 2's written instructions are somewhat off- but the photo is unambiguous and there's really only one obvious way to go. CW's Beta Photo is accurate, as well, if you're concerned- print that and bring it with you.

Leaders not solid on 5.8 and unaccustomed to tying off chickenheads for pro should be wary of leading the last pitch.

The rappel stations appeared in good condition in 5/2009.