S&M Crack 

FA:  Stewart Green and Martha Morris Type:  Trad Consensus:  5.10d [details] Length:  75 feet Views: 330 page views Submitted By: Jason Halladay on Oct 27, 2008 Add Photo  Add Comment

You and this route  |  Other Opinions (2) Your todo list: Your stars: Your rating: -none- [change] Your ticklist: [add new tick]

BETA PHOTO: The obvious crack in the center of the photo is S&...

Description 

S&M Crack is one of three routes at Sugarite dubbed as "megaclassics" by Dennis Jackson in his "Rock Climbing New Mexico" book. At 75 feet in length it is also the longest route at Sugarite.
Start off some blocks at the base following some broken flakes and finger crack from protection up to a large roof/bulge. Pull up and around the roof via some committing laybacking to the hand crack above.
If you're pumped like I was, a large ledge just off to the left about half way up the route offers a very good rest before you fire up the upper half.
Follow the overhanging hand crack with small edges for feet on the face for another 25 feet to the top. Watch for some loose rocks on top.

Location 

Far right side of the wall. The long crack is obvious.

Protection 

BD cams... Doubles of .3, .75, 1, 2. Singles of .4, .5, 3. Two-bolt anchor at the top just to the left of this crack serves as a rappel anchor too.

Photos of S&M Crack Slideshow

Add Photo

Jason Halladay preparing to do business with the o...