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Fillet et Papillon Wall

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(0.5) Uncle Fester Gets Sent to Europe 
(01) Almost Blue 
(02) Sinister Dane 
(03) Full Penetration 
(05) Gank Move 
(07) Window Shopping 
(08) Too High for Bry 
(09) Red Tag Sale 
(09.5) Unknown 
(10) Dreadlock Holiday 
(11) Dreadlock Holiday Variation 
(12) If You Can't Do It Glue It 
(14) Duran Duran 
(15) Bob Marley Meets Master Ganj 
(15.5) Unknown Lance Route 
(17) Little Caterpillar 
(18) New Kids on the Block 

Fillet et Papillon Wall

Submitted By: Monomaniac on Nov 17, 2006
Administrators: Aaron Hobson, Anthony Stout, George Perkins
Views: 601 page views

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BETA PHOTO: Fillet et Pappillion Wall. The rope is on Siniste...


Description 

This wall has around 18 routes, some uncompleted, faces due west, and features a shallow cave on the left end. All routes are fully bolted, though some share anchors. The cave also apparently has a few boulder problems. These are probably the longest hard routes at Socorro.


Getting There 

From the upstream entrance to box canyon, the wall is visible to the east. Before entering the Box, cross the wash and find a decent trail that cuts up the hill side just south of the major rock outcroppings. In 5 minutes you will arrive at the left end of the wall, below the cave. There are 4 bolted easy routes (sub 5.7) at the far right end of the cliff (aka Hueco Wall)


Routes 

(The following information was taken from a comment by DisturbingThePeace)

This wall can get quite confusing with all the obsolete information, and many many linkups in the cave and upper headwall. Here is a listing of the main mostly independent lines from left to right.

Uncle Fester routes: Left of the cave, there are several lines and linkups. 12a - 13a

(0.5) Uncle Fester Gets Sent to Europe (5.12a)
(01) Almost Blue (12c): Regarded as one of the best lines on the wall.
(02) Sinister Dane (13b): Starts out of the left side of the cave for three bolts, then up the headwall.
(03) Full Penetration (12d): Shares start with Sinister Dane to anchors inside cave.
(04) Coven (14a): pulls lip at middle of cave.
(05) Gank Move (12a or 11c?)
(06) Insider Trading (13c): Starts out of right side of the cave and up the headwall.
(07) Window Shopping (12b): Starts out far right side of cave on underclings and flakes.
(08) Too High for Bry (5.12a/b)
(09) Red Tag Sale (12b, 11b to intermediate anchors): Starts from a large boulder / flake.
(09.5) Unknown (5.11b/c)
(10) Dreadlock Holiday (12d, 11+ to intermediate anchors)
(11) Dreadlock Holiday Variation (5.12?): Climb Dreadlock holiday but veer right towards the top.
(12) If You Can't Do It Glue It (12b/c)

This is where the formerly dangerous route with the bolts in the loose flakes was. There are now two routes here that share an intermediate anchor and one bolt above the anchor.

(13) Duran's Pharmacy (new route 11a to intermediate, 12b/c to top).
(14) Duran Duran (11c to intermediate 12a to top).
(15) Bob Marley Meets Master Ganj (5.11b)
(16) Buttercup (5.12d): New route, looks thin.
(17) Little Caterpillar (5.12b)
(18) New Kids on the Block (5.10d)


The Classics

Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Fillet et Papillon Wall:
(15) Bob Marley Meets Master Ganj   5.11b     Sport, 1 pitch, 45 feet   
(14) Duran Duran   5.12a     Sport, 60 feet   
(17) Little Caterpillar   5.12b     Sport, 1 pitch, 35 feet   
(01) Almost Blue   5.12c     Sport   
(03) Full Penetration   5.12d     Sport, 35 feet   
(02) Sinister Dane   5.13b     Sport, 1 pitch, 60 feet   
Browse More Classics in Fillet et Papillon Wall

Comments on Fillet et Papillon Wall Add Comment
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By DisturbingThePeace
From: Albuquerque, NM
Feb 4, 2008

This wall can get quite confusing with all the obsolete information, and many many linkups in the cave and upper headwall. Here is a listing of the main mostly independent lines from left to right. I haven't climbed many of these so some of the grades could be inaccurate.

Uncle Fester routes: Left of the cave, there are several lines and linkups. 12a - 13a

There is also a new line that climbs out the steep headwall above the ledge where the Uncle Fester routes end. T.R.A.S.H 13b/c, steep climbing on not so great holds, first several draws are fixed.

1. Almost Blue 12c, Hard start to fun jugs climbing.
2. Sinister Dane 13b, Starts out of the left side of the cave for three bolts, then up the headwall.
3. Full Penetration 12d, Shares start with Sinister Dane to anchors inside cave.
4. Coven 14a, pulls lip at middle of cave.
5. Gank Move 12a, starts up right side of cave to shared anchors with Full Penetration.
6. Insider Trading 13c, Starts out of right side of the cave and up the headwall.
7. Window Shopping 12b, Starts out far right side of cave on underclings and flakes.
8. Too High for Bry 12a Starts 5 feet right of Window Shopping.
9. Red Tag Sale 12b, 11b to intermediate anchors, starts behind a boulder / flake.
10. Dreadlock Holiday 12a, 11+ to intermediate anchors
11. Dreadlock Holiday Variation 5.12b Climb Dreadlock holiday but veer right towards the top.
12. If you can't do it Glue it. 12d, Around 11+ or 12a to intermediate anchors. Tricky sequence around 2nd bolt, and at the top pulling the final bulge.

This is where the formerly dangerous route with the bolts in the loose flakes was. There are now two routes here that share an intermediate anchor and one bolt above the anchor.
13. Duran's Pharmacy 11a to intermediate, 12b/c to top.
14. Duran Duran 11c to intermediate 12a to top.

15. Bob Marley Meets Master Ganj 5.11b
15.5 Lance route, Extension to Bob Marley 5.11d
16. Buttercup, 5.12d, Looks thin.
17. Little Caterpillar 5.12b
18. New Kids on the Block 5.10d

By LeeAB
Administrator
From: ABQ, NM
Nov 22, 2008

I believe there is a new route between Window Shopping and Red Tag Sale, no idea as to the grade. Some of the climbing looks pretty good. Has shinny new silver Fixe hangers. Anyone know anything about this route?

By DisturbingThePeace
From: Albuquerque, NM
Nov 24, 2008

Hey Lee I heard this is a starting variation to Window Shopping that avoids the loose flakes and initial thuggery, suppose to be a similar grade to Window Shopping.

By LeeAB
Administrator
From: ABQ, NM
Nov 26, 2008

It did not seem like a variation start necessarily, it looked like it goes almost all the way up the wall.

By DisturbingThePeace
From: Albuquerque, NM
Nov 30, 2008

Yep, checked it out this weekend, it does go all the way to the top of the wall. Looks good and fairly hard.

By lance hadfield
Dec 25, 2008

that route is too fly for Bry extended to the top by John and tim it climbs really well with cool finish moves.

By djkyote
Oct 14, 2009

Some moron(s) have been taking the lowering carabiners from chains during the 2009 summer - STOP IT! Many of these were set on mid-anchors to make optional moderates from the longer 12s for beginners and classes. It isn't 'booty,' - you are endangering others and stealing from the climbing community.

By Jason Halladay
From: Los Alamos, NM
Oct 14, 2009

People taking the lowering biners bugs the hell out of me. Some things I've done is spray painting them black before putting them up and using some bailing wire to "fix" the biners on the chains. Certainly neither action keeps determined people from taking them but the paint makes the biners look much less appealing and the bailing wire sends the message that "yes, these are supposed to be here...someone didn't just happen to forget two biners on chains."