By Monomaniac
Administrator
From: Morrison, CO
Nov 11, 2007
| I enjoyed this one slightly more than Eagles, though they are both classic. This one is really sustained with no super hard moves (for the grade). There is an excellent toe-cam rest, and also a double kneebar just before the finish. This is more of an endurance climb than Eagles, and the real difficulty is keeping it together on the final dash to the anchors. The redpoint crux seems to be mounting the gray headwall. From the knee bar a sharp finger thread is used to setup for a long reach, or dyno (depending on the level of desparation) to a great pocket. Some cool undercling pockets and tricky traversing via crimps lead to the top of the wall. This one mercifully offers a great clipping jug at the finish. |
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