This is a long, aesthetic route. The upper section follows an arete with airy exposure, and the crux is the VERY last move! Note: the anchors are only visible after completing the last few moves; look left.
Makes for some good vertical gain, when combined with its neighbors (Post Moderate, and Grape Ape). The rock is pretty solid, and will only get better with more traffic. There is some loose/dirty stuff in the middle of the climb tred lightly. The final move to the anchor is nice. Don't let down your guard to early.
By Jason Halladay From: Los Alamos, NM Dec 2, 2007 rating: 5.10a
A fine route! This one rivals it's neighbor, Post Moderate. Slightly more difficult and definitely as enjoyable as PM. Thanks Amy and Aaron. 15 bolts protect the climbing to chain anchors.
Note the length--two ropes required to get down. However, with a 70m rope (with a knot tied in the ends), you can lower/rap to the first bolt just above the initial small pillar and do the easy down climb from the top of the small pillar. Just be careful.
By Jason Hundhausen From: Los Alamos, NM Dec 3, 2007 rating: 5.10a
Excellent route! Only slightly more difficult than Post Moderate and sustained for most of the way, this was certainly one of the highlights of the day. Can't wait to get back on it!
By Jason Halladay From: Los Alamos, NM Dec 7, 2008 rating: 5.10a
With the addition of anchors at 28m on Hell Boy, you can rap from the top of this route and down to Hell Boy anchors and then to the ground with a single 60m. However there is some very loose and big blocks in the face between the two routes on the upper section. I wanted to send the stuff down but it was busy with dogs and non-helmeted climbers down below so I did not. Until it gets cleaned up, I don't recommend rapping this way.
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