An area off the beaten path, with closely grouped routes in two different sections. An excellent selection of moderate climbs (5.10-5.11) on beautiful basalt. Routes here have nice springer anchors, allowing the last climber to easily lower off by just clipping through the shuts. However, please avoid premature anchor wear by using quick draws until the last person climbs the route.
The crag gets afternoon shade in the summer time. Since sun hits it until noon, however, this area may be pretty warm in mid summer. Best time is probably March through May and September through November. Not a winter crag, as little sun hits the rock from December to February.
Getting There
The Cockscomb Crag area about a mile down the main arroyo from Diablo Canyon. The name comes from the basalt pillars at the far right end of the crag, which resemble the top of a roosters head There are two ways to get to there:
1) Best Approach: "drive past the normal Diablo turnoff and continue around the Sun Devil Mesa and on toward the Rio Grande. After you pass a pump station just off the road on your left, continue about 0.3 miles to the first crossroad that goes in both directions. Turn left, follow the road to another pump station (~100 yards), and park on the CCC side of the station. Walk down into the arroyo that runs behind the station and follow it (under or over the barbed wire fence) toward the main Diablo arroyo (the fence marks entry into National Forest from BLM land). Cross the main arroyo to a prominent wash on the other side. The trail starts up this wash then veers right onto a well worn and cairned trail all the way to the crag. Car to crag will take 20 to 45 minutes, depending on if you are superhuman or more normal(R. Bradshaw)."
2) (Not recommended, will take a lot longer than #1): From the main Diablo climbing area (the one where you see the large, looming sundevil wall), hike the main wash through the sand for about 1.5 miles. Eventually you will see the cockscomb crag high up and to your left. Look for the trail from the river bottom that heads up to the crag.
The Classics
Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Cockscomb Crag:
A nice route heading up a prominent nose looking arete. Starts as a slab. Great route with less than secure moves in places....[more]Browse More Classics in NM
By Monomaniac Administrator From: Morrison, CO Dec 6, 2006
This is an excellent crag. It seems the rock here is much better that most of the rock at Diablo (except for the 'upper tier' routes). The ultra-convenient lowering anchors are also a huge plus. The hike isn't nearly as bad as it sounds. Its a bit long, but its not very steep by climber's trail standards. If only the routes were twice as long!
By Monomaniac Administrator From: Morrison, CO May 24, 2007
When I was here in mid-May the crag was in the sun until a bit after noon. It was blazing hot until the sun arrived. There are a few routes that get shade before the main cliff gets shade, but not enough to keep you occupied. I would plan to arrive here around 11:30 am in the summer.
I would like to express my thanks to everyone who was involved with putting up these routes. The clippy hangers are suuuuuuper sweet and all the bolting seems to be well thought out.
When approaching the crag from the lower (pump house) parking, head down to the floor of the main Diablo canyon wash. Turn right down the wash (toward the Rio Grande), and go approximately 1/8 mile. You'll see the left bank rise up in small mud cliffs ahead, with a few small rubbly washes dumping in. Just before the mud cliffs, look for 2 medium-sized cottonwood trees growing on the left bank (coxcomb side), with branches reaching over the wash, nearly touching the sand. Continue past these about 70 meters, and then climb up the last little steep/jumbly wash, just before the mud cliffs form a serious wall and redirect the main wash to the right. At first, it'll seem unlikely, but after scrambling 20-30 feet, you'll find yourself on a good trail that will lead you all the way to the crag. Note: Beverly's book shows the trail going up a ramp to the left of a washed-out area. The trail we took stayed just to the right of the washout. We did not find a cairn marking the start of the trail from the main Diablo wash.
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