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Solar Cave

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Clovis Hunter 
Cro-Magnon 
Erectus 
Evolution 
Hominid 
ILL (Ian and Lance Line) Route? (AKA Unnamed 12c), The 
Intelligent Design 
Lucy 
Mastodont 
Meanderthal 
Native Rituals 
Natural Selection 
Neanderthal 
Sapien 
Suicidal Society 
Tribal Moves (aka Sacred Stone?) 
Voyage of the Beagle 

Solar Cave

Submitted By: Anthony Stout on Mar 6, 2006
Administrators: Aaron Hobson, Anthony Stout, George Perkins
Views: 770 page views

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  Print a Mini-Guide - Includes Routes!

Aaron on "unnamed" 12c to the right of the "Solar ...


Description 

Quote from random climber while working one of the routes in this area: "this is good choss!"

The routes here may look a little crumbly, but the rock is quite solid! Home of the most difficult climbs in Diablo, exciting and overhung routes will push you to the limit!


Getting There 

Walk down to the arroyo and head straight as if going through the canyon between the cliffs. Before you enter between the cliff walls you will see a trail off to the right, heading up toward an obvious south facing area with overhanging rock on the north side of the canyon. The area is adjacent to Sun Devil on the same cliff band.


Misc. 

There are some great routes on this wall! I was not unable to take any pictures of them. I am writing the best descriptions I can here of the routes that I did, and will add photos of these routes when I take them.


Climbs, left to right (see Aaron's topo for details) 

Voyage of the Beagle 5.11b/c
Hominid 5.11b/c
Intelligent Design 5.11c - shares most of 1st pitch with Hominid, move right to belay, then go up 2nd pitch
Natural Selection 5.12+
Mastodont 5.13b/c
Evolution 5.12c
Lucy 5.12a - start shared with Cro-Magnon, then left
Cro-Magnon 5.12a
Meanderthal 5.11+ - start shared with Cro-Magnon, then move right into Neanderthal
Neanderthal 5.12b
Sapien 5.12c/d
Erectus 5.12c - start as for Sapien, then right
Clovis Hunter 5.12b
Native Rituals 5.13b
Tribal Moves (aka Sacred Stone?) 5.12d - start shared with Native Rituals, then right
The ILL (Ian and Lance Line) Route? (AKA Unnamed 12c) 5.12c
Decomp 5.13a - ???
Suicidal Society 5.11c - 2 pitches, missing some bolts?


The Classics

Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Solar Cave:
Cro-Magnon   5.12a     Sport, 90 feet   
Lucy   5.12a     Sport, 90 feet   
Clovis Hunter   5.12a/b     Sport, 80 feet   
Evolution   5.12c     Sport, 1 pitch, 95 feet   
Sapien   5.12c     Sport, 80 feet   
Native Rituals   5.13b     Sport, 1 pitch, 85 feet   
Mastodont   5.13b/c     Sport, 1 pitch, 80 feet   
Browse More Classics in Solar Cave

Featured Route For Solar Cave
Amy in some seriously sunset-y light on "Clovis Hunter."  Photo by Peter Steadman.

Clovis Hunter 5.12a/b  NM : Santa Fe Area : ... : Solar Cave
Start on broken rock that is harder than it looks, reach good holds and set up for the small roof and overhang. Original finish heads right with technical face climbing. A new alternate finish heads straight and pulls the next roof. Both finishes are supposed to be the same grade....[more]   Browse More Classics in NM


Photos of Solar Cave Slideshow Add Photo
Picture of Solar Cave from <a href='/v/new_mexico/santa_fe_area/diablo_canyon/105803240'>The Grotto (AKA: The Notch)</a>.

Picture of Solar Cave from The Grotto (AKA: The Notch).

sketch topo of the routes in the cave

BETA PHOTO: sketch topo of the routes in the cave


Comments on Solar Cave Add Comment
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By Aaron Miller
Jun 28, 2006

This cave was named "Solar Cave" due to its passive solar properties with south-facing aspect and good canopy angle which provides sun in the winter and some shade in the summer. In teh winter, climb mid-day, in the summer, climb early or late.

good progressive design to a climbing area. Every area should have this luxury.

By Monomaniac
Administrator
From: Morrison, CO
Apr 6, 2007

Anyone know what the furthest right route in the cave is? Is this the first pitch (11c?) of Suicidal Society? The rock seems especially nasty.

By Marc Beverly
From: New Mexico
Feb 16, 2009

Yup.