Dreamscape 

FA:  Jean DeLataillade, Doug Pandorf Type:  Trad, TR Consensus:  5.11c [details] Length:  1 pitch, 60 feet Views: 217 page views Submitted By: Brian Quiter on Sep 8, 2008 Add Photo  Add Comment

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BETA PHOTO: Looking straight up at the dreamscape.

Description 

Climb the converging double cracks for about 15 feet. Both are splitter, and neither provide solid jams. After they converge, deal with the sustained tiny finger crack (crux) for about 25 feet. This crack is generally too small for fingers, but the offset faces provide lieback opportunities. The crack finally bends right and get steeper and wider as you reach slightly overhung hands jams to the progressively wider and steeper finish.

Combining face and crack techniques is probably best for conquering your dreamscape.

Location 

Between Shadowdancer and Another Lichen Nightmare on the north-facing face right of the obvious (and classic) Prow (5.11).

Protection 

Single cams to 3" and plenty of nuts should suffice for leading. Top anchor options include Another Lichen Nightmare's bolted anchor about 15' to the left, Shadowdancer's bolted anchor 15' to the right, or big trees about 30' back from the cliff's edge (and a bunch of cacti for your rope to get into between the trees and the cliff).

Photos of Dreamscape Slideshow

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Eric Whitbeck leading Dreamscape