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North Cliffband
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(01) Napoleon Blown-Apart 
(02) Grunge Up the Munge 
(04) Praise the Lunge 
(06) Gunning for the Buddha 
(08) Montana Deviate 
(09) Holy Wars 
(10) Back to Montana 
(11) Mr. Toad's Wild Ride 
(12) Touch Monkey 
(14) Empty and Meaningless 
(15) Feminist Men 
(16) Monkey Lust 
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(18) Unknown 
(19) Cochiti Classic 
(20) La Espina 
(21) Cochiti Ugly 
(22) Thief in Time 
(23) Thief Crack 
(25) Unknown 
(26) Pickpocket 
(27) Open Mouth Syndrome (OMS) 

(15) Feminist Men 

5.12a

   

FA: Leslie Coon
Type: Sport
Consensus: 5.12a [details]
Length: 1 pitch, 40 feet
Views: 101 page views

Submitted By: George Perkins on Aug 17, 2008


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Description 

Thin face start to the horizontal crack. Awkward high step, one tough move to the monopocket to clip the 3rd bolt. Just past this is the crux between 3rd and 4th bolts, with more one and two finger pockets. Easier at the 5th bolt.

All 3 guidebooks say this climb has modified/chipped holds and therefore should be avoided at all costs. (I haven't climbed at Cochiti enough yet to feel like I should be able to tell.) I didn't think the climbing or the rock was horrendous, but the climb certainly isn't up to the average standard for Cochiti for overall quality.


Location 

Just right of Monkey Lust, starts on the flat block balcony. Climb up the chimney to the right, or Laurel's Climb or Unknown to get to the start.


Protection 

5 bolts to a 2-bolt anchor. One of the guides says the hangers were removed at one point, but they are all there as of 2008.