Enjoying the excellent "Unnamed" on the south side...
Description
This brilliant line climbs nearly 100 feet of pristine pockets, knobs and edges. Begin by scrambling with difficulty up to the exposed, slopy ledge below (12) Manhattan. Best to leave your belayer on the ground, which is doable if you have a 60m rope. Stick clip the first bolt, and traverse right onto the cinnamon colored scoop. Surmount the cruxy bulge near the right arete, then move back left onto the faces. An endless sea of pockets and knobs continues upwards. Around mid-height a series of shallow scoops appears on the left. Its possible to climb into these scoops, but they offer no respite, and exiting these features is awkward and difficult. Best to stay right.
Location
Immediately right of "Manhattan".
Protection
13 bolts and 2 BA. Bring a lot of draws and a stick clip for the first bolt.
By Jason Halladay From: Los Alamos, NM Oct 14, 2007 rating: 5.11b
We started from the ledge up left towards "Manhattan" and didn't use a stick clip for the first bolt. It's not too bad to do this but blowing the first clip wouldn't be good. If you have a stick, use it.
Excellent sustained climbing. Mostly just less than vertical, so you can get some decent rests (at the expense of sore toes, if you're using good pocket-climbing shoes). Rock seemed solid enough when dry, but I've heard it can be crumbly for a while after it rains. Several of the bolt hangers down low are spinners, which can be disappointing if you're trying to hang draws at full extension!
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