Touch Monkey in sun and shade. If you have a bett...
Description
This sandbagged line is the centerpiece of Cochiti's North Cliffband, and likely the most sought after route at Cochiti. Its also likely the tweakiest route at Cohiti, with an evil, technical crux on insanely shallow, sloping pockets. Judging from the copious amounts of chalk at the crux, many a hard man has tangled with this impossible-to-ignore classic, though the equally stunning lack of chalk above the 5th bolt seems to indicate that few have succeeded.
The climb begins in the large dihedral crack. Stand up in the corner until its possible to grab the large, positive dish with your left hand. From here charge up towards the left arete, making big moves on deep, positive pockets. Its possible to climb up onto the slabby arete for a good rest, but this seems a bit lame, and is certainly unnecessary.
Cop a dubious undercling rest at the 3 inch roof, clip the 4th bolt, and enter the crux. Sequential moves on heinously shallow pockets lead to the worst mono at Cochiti. Deadpoint from the mono up to two good pockets and clip the 5th bolt.
The word on the street is that these pockets have crumbled somewhat over time. This theory seems entirely likely considering the nature of the Cochiti stone, and perhaps explains why this route seems so hard for a 'lowly' 13a. However, the route has been redpointed as recently as late 2006.
After the 5th bolt, 20 feet of sustained 11+ slabbing lead to the anchors. Again, its possible to use either arete, but its not necessary, and seems a bit weak.
Location
Touch Monkey is the next route that faces south after Gunning for the Buddha, or the first fully bolted route left of Back to Montana. It is also the obvious, lightly bulging face that calls out like a Siren, begging to be climbed.
Protection
6 bolts, 2 bolt chain anchor. Stick clip the first bolt.
I did this route in the late 90s and thought it was BY FAR the hardest 13a I'd ever done - and it's exactly my style, not too overhanging and sequential. I don't think the holds have changed that much - the route is just the product of a bygone era, as well as being authored by a true tiny pocket/vertical badass. If it was at Shelf, it'd be 13b or c, probably. A great tick no matter what.
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