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DescriptionThis is the cliff section to the SE from the downclimb. With roughly 35 routes, this area offers numerous TR possibilities, and a wide diversity of climbing styles, from difficult thin slabs, to 5.13 cracks, to wild overhangs. Getting ThereFrom the downclimb, head SE, or left. Some routes are approached from rappel from the mesa rim. For these routes, skip the downclimb and head SE along the rim trail. The ClassicsMountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for South Cliffband:
Just Say No to Crack 5.10a/b Sport, 50 feet
Unnamed (?) 5.10b/c Sport, 70 feet
Another Lichen Nightmare 5.11a Sport, 1 pitch, 70 feet
The Prow 5.11b/c Sport, 1 pitch, 70 feet
Dreamscape 5.11c Trad, TR, 1 pitch, 60 feet
Shadowdancer 5.12c/d Sport, 1 pitch, 80 feet
Featured Route For South Cliffband
Dreamscape 5.11c NM : Santa Fe Area : ... : South Cliffband
Climb the converging double cracks for about 15 feet. Both are splitter, and neither provide solid jams. After they converge, deal with the sustained tiny finger crack (crux) for about 25 feet. This crack is generally too small for fingers, but the offset faces provide lieback opportunities. The crack finally bends right and get steeper and wider as you reach slightly overhung hands jams to the progressively wider and steeper finish. Combini...[more] Browse More Classics in NM
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