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Apache Canyon Bouldering 
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Santa Fe Area

Submitted By: Anthony Stout on Nov 8, 2008
Administrators: Aaron Hobson, Anthony Stout, George Perkins
Latitude: 35.6744  Longitude: -105.9487 
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Intro 

Santa Fe, a major tourist destination, the oldest capital city in the US, offers a wealth of cultural and outdoor experiences, and a wide variety of year-round climbing.

The nearest areas are:

Other areas with 1 hour include:
Seek out the sunny cliffs of areas like Diablo and Cochiti in the colder months; in the summer, head to the shaded valley of the Pecos or the shady cliffs at Diablo and Eagle Canyon.

Camping The areas near most of the crags (Diablo, Cochiti) provide low-key opportunities for dirtbagging on public land. Be aware that the Pecos River Canyon has seen a lot of impact from camping. Lodging at various levels of luxury can be had in Santa Fe.

Climbing Gym The Santa Fe Climbing Center offers indoor climbing for the evenings and the cold and snowy days in the winter.

Gear Some gear can be obtained at the climbing gym. Sangre de Cristo Mountain Works and REI have a bit more to choose from.


Santa Fe Crags, bouldering, and alpine 

- Truchas Peaks: The Truchas Peaks area of the Sangre de Cristo Mountains in Northern New Mexico offers a high abundance of quality, secluded hiking and mountain adventure.

- Diablo Canyon: Single to multi-pitch, sport and trad, less than vertical to overhanging. A nice variety of climbing on excellent to poor quality basalt.

- Cochiti Mesa & Surrounding Crags: Think vertical pockets and monos. Technical climbing away from the crowds on a former destination sport climbing area.

- Pecos River Canyon: Picturesque granite crag northeast of Santa Fe, NM.

- Apache Canyon Bouldering: A large overhanging chunk of sandstone with at least 20 different variations. Just 20 minutes outside of Santa Fe.


Getting There 

Head north of Albuquerque on I-25, you can't miss Santa Fe, the Capital of New Mexico!


The Classics

Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Santa Fe Area:
(06) Post Moderate   5.9     Sport, 1 pitch, 165 feet   Diablo Canyon : Sun Devil & Winter Wall
(08) Humbolt   5.10a     Sport, 1 pitch, 70 feet   Early Wall : Early Wall - Left End
(07.1) Naked Lunch   5.10     Sport, 1 pitch, 140 feet   Diablo Canyon : Sun Devil & Winter Wall
(04) Grape Ape   5.10c     Sport, 150 feet   Diablo Canyon : Sun Devil & Winter Wall
Another Lichen Nightmare   5.11a     Sport, 1 pitch, 70 feet   Cochiti Mesa : South Cliffband
(06) Affirmative Action   5.11a     Sport   The Grotto (AKA: The Notch) : Lower Grotto
(13) Unnamed Left   5.11b     Sport, 90 feet   Cochiti Mesa & Surrounding ... : Eagle Canyon
(02) Sun Devil   5.11b PG13     Sport, 3 pitches, 300 feet   Diablo Canyon : Sun Devil & Winter Wall
The Prow   5.11b/c     Sport, 1 pitch, 70 feet   Cochiti Mesa : South Cliffband
(27) Open Mouth Syndrome (OMS)   5.11b/c     Sport, 1 pitch, 70 feet   Cochiti Mesa : North Cliffband
(07) Cock -a-doodle-do   5.11c     Sport   Cockscomb Crag : Poultrygeist Area
(03.1) Pale Face   5.11+     Sport, 1 pitch, 110 feet   Diablo Canyon : Sun Devil & Winter Wall
(04.1) Bush in a Blender   5.12a PG13     Sport, 1 pitch, 80 feet   The Grotto (AKA: The Notch) : Lower Grotto
Clovis Hunter   5.12a/b     Sport, 80 feet   Diablo Canyon : Solar Cave
Unnamed Arete (Left of Tweak Fuck)   5.12b     Sport, 1 pitch, 60 feet   The Grotto (AKA: The Notch) : Grotto End (R. Side)
(06) Gunning for the Buddha   5.12b     Sport, 1 pitch, 55 feet   Cochiti Mesa : North Cliffband
Sapien   5.12c     Sport, 80 feet   Diablo Canyon : Solar Cave
Shadowdancer   5.12c/d     Sport, 1 pitch, 80 feet   Cochiti Mesa : South Cliffband
(12) Touch Monkey   5.13a     Sport, 1 pitch, 60 feet   Cochiti Mesa : North Cliffband
(30) Didgemaster   5.13+     Sport, 1 pitch, 30 feet   Cochiti Mesa & Surrounding ... : Eagle Canyon
Browse More Classics in Santa Fe Area

Featured Route For Santa Fe Area
Shadowdancer. From here, turn the arete to the left where a few more entertaining moves lead to the ledge.

Shadowdancer 5.12c/d  NM : Santa Fe Area : ... : South Cliffband
This is regarded by many as the best route at Cochiti Mesa. Slightly overhanging, with excellent rock, and deep, positive pockets, its hard to argue with that assessment. Due to the overhanging nature, this line is much more pumpy than most Cochiti routes, and the ability to quickly identify the best sequence is critical.There are two ways to climb this route, which accounts for the split grade. However, the various area guidebooks disagree on...[more]   Browse More Classics in NM