This is a long & really fun route, with a beautiful, slightly overhanging headwall with small pockets, high off the ground. "Rock Climbing New Mexico" rates it 12a but it seemed a lot easier than that--there are no moves harder than 10+/11-, and if you step left halfway up the headwall, there is a pretty good rest. (I'm not saying it's not hard, it was plenty challenging for me--just not 12a. I found "Unruly Macaque" 11c, just down the way, to be significantly harder.)
At any rate, it's a great route. Take care down low, as there is a long runout (moderate climbing) on poor rock. This protects with gear, but would it hold? If not you'll probably hit the ground. Above this the harder climbing is very well-protected with bolts.
Location
The route begins to the right of Reddi-Wip (there is a chossy chimney/gully in between), and just to the left of a classic pocketed 5.9 (name?). It has one bolt, followed by a chossy crack, a small roof, and then a beautiful headwall which appears very difficult from the ground. Long pitch.
Protection
a bunch of draws, one long sling for under the roof (or backclean the draw), and one or two friends in the 1.5-3 size range. 60 meter rope required.
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