Way up high on the route working through the crux ...
Description
There is a difficult start to a high first bolt. You get a good rest ledge before starting up the increasingly steep top section. Crux near the top. Big holds on an overhanging wall - great route for working on endurance.
Location
Long fun route up the middle of Pirates Wall. 4th route from the left, just left of (05) Pirated.
Fun route, probably the best route on Pirates wall, Long John is quite good as well. Watch for the nice resting jug just before the crux on the left. You can throw an arm over it and get a nice rest for the crux crimpy bulge ahead. Make it past the crux and the difficulties ease up for the few feet left to the anchors. This route wouldn't be nearly as hard if the crux was lower on the route.
I also seem to remember Mark Thomas being the FA for this route.
Great route. Missed that arm-dangler jug, DTP, but enough good shakeouts along the way to pull through the high crux. I hadn't been on it in a few years, and was amazed to find the bee hive (just to the left about 2/3 of the way up) as active as ever.
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