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Gnar Wall & Route Canal
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Slacker Ken 

5.9

   

FA: Vaino Kodas and Tony Stout (June 2007)
New Route: Yes
Type: Sport
Consensus: 5.9 [details]
Views: 434 page views

Submitted By: Anthony Stout on Jun 11, 2007


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Allison leading up "Slacker Ken", a fun, airy 5.9 ...


Description 

A newer route so not in the guidebook. The first bolt is low and protects you off the deck. Climb up to a nice ledge, where the second bolt can be clipped from a great stance. Continue up through a small bulge and to the anchors. Nice exposure for the grade as it climbs just left of, or on the arete. The climb can be done along the arete, or slightly left of it for two different variations.


Location 

Far left end of the Rad Wall on the arete. On the right side of the entryway to the corridor. This route is listed as #1 in the Rad Wall topo.


Protection 

5 Bolts to chain anchors. Recommended to keep the first bolt clipped while cleaning to prevent an exciting swing.



Comments on Slacker Ken Add Comment
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By Chris Tucker
From: Albuquerque, NM
Jul 27, 2009
CONDITION REPORT 

"Was end of the day" was only excuse not to finish. Made it to the cruxy end but could not pass.

Exposure is really insane, specially if you choose to use the arete.

Careful, one of our team found loose cobbles right at the anchors, some fell, but not all. Everyone was rattled but uninjured.

By Mike Howard
Administrator
Jun 11, 2007

A 3 star 5.9 by Vaino and Tony on the Rad Wall...I can't wait to try it. Thanks you guys.

By Jason Halladay
From: Los Alamos, NM
Jun 25, 2007
rating: 5.9

I really enjoy the exposure and feel of this route. Very fun!

We belayed from the nice platform near the entrance to the "Tooth Canal" corridor. There's a belay bolt at ground level about 6 feet up the corridor that's helpful to clip a lighter belayer to for a heavier climber because there is good swing potential.

By Jason Hundhausen
From: Los Alamos, NM
Jul 1, 2007
rating: 5.9

Nice route. Good addition to the area. A little lichen keeps things interesting.