Jay Foley replaced the anchor today with NM Crag donated hardware (Fixe stainless sport anchor) that should last for years if we only use it for lowering. Look at the wear on the hardware grade snap links in the photo (I think the best of these rate at 550 lbs = 2.5kN. They are for light duty use and NOT for overhead lifting).
Help me out here, but I believe top roping forces can exceed 5 kN. Worn snap links are weaker still. There are more of these to replace (Cobble Wobble could use some love). And those smash links are a bear to remove BTW. Thanks Jay and Sal.
Old chain and snap-links Submitted By: Mike Howard on Oct 4, 2008
Worn snap-link Submitted By: Mike Howard on Oct 4, 2008
New Fixe anchors courtesy of NM Crag Submitted By: Mike Howard on Oct 4, 2008
Jay cleaning old chain and smash-links Submitted By: Mike Howard on Oct 4, 2008
Thanks for the update, Mike, and thanks to Jay and Sal for the work on the replacement! I have a number of anchor sets from the ARI that are looking for a installation place and El Rito seems like a great place to put 'em. I know the anchor on top of "Jug or Naut" sucks so that's a candidate too. Other suggestions anyone? (Now if I could just find the time...)
By Monomaniac Administrator From: Morrison, CO Oct 6, 2008
Sanadine Dream would be a great route if it got a good retrobolt.
Do take a look at any of the anchors which use the snap links. Wear on those from lowering off (and perhaps some errant top-roping) makes those things a time bomb. Please consider Cobble Wobble and any of the other popular routes. You'll need something to pry/pound apart the smash links. Jay used a knife blade and a lost arrow to open the link from the side enough to wind off the chain. Thanks ARI.
Thanks for the suggestions Mike. I hope I can get up there in a couple weeks for a day or two. I've not removed a smash link before so it's good to have advance warning about those.
Thanks Andrew, Great points and we had those very thoughts that day. There is obviously more work to do for those willing to lend a hand. That technique with the chain into a drilled groove had been widely used in the past and shows just how far the sport has come. The grooving lessens much of the "cantilever effect" and translates to mostly a downward pull (shear). Those rawls seemed solid but the weakness surely seems to be the forces upward on the bolt head and washer. I know of no testing data on this sort of set up. Come help us replace 'em.
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