Enjoying a brief moment of relief after clipping t...
Description
A striking climb with exciting moves on every pitch. The first pitch has several variations. The "regular" start as described in Dennis Jackson's guide is in a grass-filled crack underneath the left side of a huge roof (5.8). (This is the same start as for Tooth Decay.) At the first bolt, traverse right underneath the roof to a bolt on the corner. A variation start is to climb a thin seam/shallow-dihedral just to the right of the regular start. This is rated 5.8 R in the Rosul-Dunning topos, but felt more like 5.9+. The seam is too small except for fingertips in a few spots, and is difficult to protect. Another variation starts in the alcove around the corner to the right, and face climbs past two bolts (5.10+?) to reach the bolt on the corner of the large roof. from the bolt at the edge of the roof, follow a rising crack to the right to reach a 15 ft hand-crack in a corner. This crack goes at 5.9 with a tricky exit move to gain a brushy ledge. Easier climbing gains a large ledge next to a dying tree where a 3-bolt chain anchor is found. It is preferable to set up a gear belay on the north (climber's left) side of the tree on a spacious ledge, which will give you better views of the spectacular second pitch.
The second pitch is the best known, and perhaps most feared. Rising off to the left is 100 ft of 5.10 slab with only four bolts for protection (a piton helps protect the traverse over to the bolts). The old 1/4" bolts are still there, but someone has been kind enough to add a second newer 3/8" bolt next to each old bolt making the climb all that much safer. Still this pitch is quite memorable, with perfect rock and exposure. Belay at a small stance on the arete with more great exposure.
The third pitch continues up the arete on the right side for 60ft until a small overlap above a large block is reached. A difficult and committing 5.9+ mantle gains a small stance next to a bolt. From here the climb moves over to the left side of the arete and up a small dihedral where a committing traverse move to the right is required to gain a bolted belay stance on the arete.
The last two pitches can be combined, although it may involve having some rope-drag. From the belay, climb past a bolt to the left (5.9 slab) then veer up and right under a large protruding block. Clip a bolt under the right side of the block, and fire up the thin crack/corner (5.9). If rope-drag is an issue, belay at the top of this block, otherwise take your pick of two cracks to ascend the final 50 ft. The left-hand crack is easier (5.7) but also slightly dirty. A hand/fist crack which diagonals sharply to the right goes at 5.9.
Protection
I found small wires and a few hand-sized cams to be useful. The thin seam variation start takes tiny wires, but most the other cruxes are protected by bolts. Long runners are helpful for rope-drag avoidance. Many of the bolted belays have an abundance of bolts. Beware though as many of these bolts are old 1/4", but there is usually one or two newer bolts as well. A few loose blocks exist and parties should use caution, especially on the third pitch.
Location
This route starts under the large roof on the left side of the west face. After the bottle-neck start it pretty much stays out near the left arete. Descent is by three double-rope rappels.
By George Perkins Administrator From: Los Alamos, NM Feb 11, 2008 rating: 5.10a PG13
I couldn't wait to get back to this one after we found the Consequences on the first try... but we sneaked our way up on the 2nd visit to the Tooth. The crux pitch looks really intimidating, but isn't as blank as it looks, once you get out there. Good stuff. Worth the approach for this climb for sure.
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