Welcome to the New Mexico section of Mountain Project!
The contributions that are made to this site are greatly appreciated; this site is made up of an awesome community of users that make the site what it is.
Although there is very little information regarding “rules” for submitting climbing areas and routes to this site, the New Mexico Administers all agree that the following guidelines may be helpful to truly make this site go “Beyond the Guidebook”.
1) Don’t be a jerk (this one states the obvious). 2) Route and area submissions should truly be helpful to those out climbing. Before posting, you should have some first hand experience actually climbing the route. This always results in a much more useful description. 3) Please, please, please… Don’t copy route descriptions directly out of guidebooks, online publications, etc. This is plagiarism! Remember, BEYOND the guidebook! 4) Please use the spell check and make an effort to use correct grammar.
Again, the Mountainproject community truly appreciates the efforts taken to make good route descriptions. If you feel that a route or area description is not up to standard, a brief email to one of the area admins for suggestions on improvement will be greatly appreciated.
Thank you for taking the time to make the New Mexico section of Mountain Project quality! We look forward to seeing you out there!
13 year old leading "Uncarved Block" 5.10a at New ...
Description
New Canyon is a small little known limestone climbing area tucked away near the town of Manzano. Generally the climbs are vertical to slighty less than vertical and are short 40 to 50 feet high. Generally the routes climb incut crimps and pockets. Climbable year round, but sweltering hot during the summer and cold on anything but the warmest winter days.
There are about 35 bolted routes with another 20 trad or top-rope routes.
Beware of missing bolts and anchors, and loose rock. More climber traffic would help clean these routes up.
Walls from the entrance are: Mighty Power Roof Damage Bulge Rad Cave Lunchtime
Getting There
From the town of Manzano turn west onto El Composanto RD B065, at the following for turn right onto road #245 and follow this to a large Cibola National Forest Sign. This is 2.4 miles from the turnoff from NM55. Park at the pulloff by the sign, and follow a climber trail for a short ways to the cliffs.
If you can't find Manzano it is easy to Google directions to it.
Resources
See "New Canyon Rock Climbing" Dennis Zallen 2004 This guide can be found at REI or Stone Age.
Also mentioned in the now out of print "Sport Climbing in New Mexico South" Matt Samet
Many of these routes were chopped. Be careful what you start up. Perhaps someone will go back and fix this place up again...maybe the guy who chopped it ?
I put up a half dozen routes here in about 1990, with Matt Samet and others. Many hangers were subsequently stolen by a well-known ABQ climber.....totally sad. I even did an interview with him about why he took them.
By Anthony Stout Administrator From: Albuquerque, NM Apr 8, 2008
And......? What did this person say during that interview?
I would love to help fix it up, my Mother in-law lives just 25 mins away from New Canyon. I checked it out on 27 May and was glad to see the fire did not reach the crag. (It did come very close) . Not only do I think this a nice little crag to train my daughter but it would give me a reason to get out of the house, LOL. Anyone willing to help please let me know. I will need to know what size/type hangers to get. plus name of the P.O.S. would took them so I can charge him. Please do tell the name he should be "black balled". I can't believe a true climber would ever do such a thing. Chris
New Canyon
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