13 year old leading "Uncarved Block" 5.10a at New ...
Description
New Canyon is a small little known limestone climbing area tucked away near the town of Manzano. Generally the climbs are vertical to slighty less than vertical and are short 40 to 50 feet high. Generally the routes climb incut crimps and pockets. Climbable year round, but sweltering hot during the summer and cold on anything but the warmest winter days.
There are about 35 bolted routes with another 20 trad or top-rope routes.
Beware of missing bolts and anchors, and loose rock. More climber traffic would help clean these routes up.
Walls from the entrance are: Mighty Power Roof Damage Bulge Rad Cave Lunchtime
Getting There
From the town of Manzano turn west onto El Composanto RD B065, at the following for turn right onto road #245 and follow this to a large Cibola National Forest Sign. This is 2.4 miles from the turnoff from NM55. Park at the pulloff by the sign, and follow a climber trail for a short ways to the cliffs.
If you can't find Manzano it is easy to Google directions to it.
Resources
See "New Canyon Rock Climbing" Dennis Zallen 2004 This guide can be found at REI or Stone Age.
Also mentioned in the now out of print "Sport Climbing in New Mexico South" Matt Samet
I put up a half dozen routes here in about 1990, with Matt Samet and others. Many hangers were subsequently stolen by a well-known ABQ climber.....totally sad. I even did an interview with him about why he took them.
By Anthony Stout Administrator From: Albuquerque, NM Apr 8, 2008
And......? What did this person say during that interview?
I would love to help fix it up, my Mother in-law lives just 25 mins away from New Canyon. I checked it out on 27 May and was glad to see the fire did not reach the crag. (It did come very close) . Not only do I think this a nice little crag to train my daughter but it would give me a reason to get out of the house, LOL. Anyone willing to help please let me know. I will need to know what size/type hangers to get. plus name of the P.O.S. would took them so I can charge him. Please do tell the name he should be "black balled". I can't believe a true climber would ever do such a thing. Chris
most of the hangers were returned by the party in question while free-soloing - not using a rope makes a person a not a true climber? this situation happened many years ago.
So I talked with the person who ripped off the bolts - they were taken to Las Conchas and used there. They are bummed about the situation and have given me some $ to go back and re-bolt the area. I'll put them in in the next couple of weeks hopefully. If anyone wants to help me out, give me a call. A ground crew is always good to have and makes things go way faster.
Rd #245 is currently closed. It is possible to park at the first gate and walk 0.2 miles to the cliff.
I was at new canyon today to repalce the missing bolt hangers. It looks like a majority of the routes have already been re-equipped with new bolts and anchors. I'm not familiar with the area perhaps someone who is could verify if the information regarding bolt counts and etc. is accurate. Furthermore I have some hardware I am willing to donate if any other routes need re-equipped at the cliff.
I have talked with several employees at the Mountainair Ranger District and have received conflicting information regarding the access for this cliff. One told me climbing is permitted even with road closure in effect. Another said the area was closed to climbing because it is an archeological site. Not quite sure what the story is.
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