Awkward start off the ground to an overhanging hand crack, followed by a good rest. Unprotected over the bulge on slopers directly above; or step left, make a weird undercling step back right; (or begin the entire climb as for Batshit Crack and traverse left above this). A thin shallow dihedral above has just enough small gear placements to keep it sane. When you reach the finger crack, you're through the crux.
By Jason Halladay From: Los Alamos, NM Aug 21, 2008 rating: 5.10d
A #000 C3 protects the awkward undercling bulge move from the left pretty well. It's still at your feet when you're pulling over it but the fall would be pretty clean I think.
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