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Routes in New New Place
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Rough Wall Right T,TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13 |
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Crap On T,TR 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13 |
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Unnamed T,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Beginner's T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13 |
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Avalauncher TR 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Flare T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Sharon's Sandbag T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Sharon's Lead T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Half Moons (aka Clockwork) T,TR 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a R |
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Fever Pitch T,TR 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a R |
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Rumsey's Lead T,TR 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Batshit Crack T,TR 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Open Book (aka Pure Thoughts) T,TR 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a R |
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Thumb Action T,TR 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b R |
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Phone Booth T,TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Have a Nice Day Yucca T,TR 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Twin Cracks T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Hard Crack T,TR 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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| Type: | Trad, TR, 65 ft (20 m) |
| FA: | Steve Schum and Mike Roybal probably |
| Page Views: | 1,649 total · 8/month |
| Shared By: | George Perkins on Aug 12, 2008 |
| Admins: | Jason Halladay, Mike Hoskins, Anna Brown |
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Description
Clearly the best line at the NNP, Batshit Crack is the most continuously sustained crack here. It begins as moves with hand jams to a short section moving into a body-size flare that has less than ideal protection. Above, a steep hand crack section. 10-15' of 5.9 OW finishes the climb.
Liebacking is a good substitute for technique on this climb.
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