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T2 Flake 

5.10c R

   

FA: ???
Type: Trad, TR
Consensus: 5.10c [details]
Length: 1 pitch, 50 feet
Views: 130 page views

Submitted By: Scott Beguin on Nov 9, 2007


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George Perkins - stepping up to the scare.


Description 

Start by hopping up on a block to a left-angling flake to a giant pocket which you can heel hook, then continue up a right-angling thin seam up a leaning dihedral that is tricky to get good gear placements(crux), then surmount the end of the overhanging dihedral to exit.


Location 

This route is located about 15 feet to the north(right) of Unrelenting Nines.


Protection 

small to medium stoppers and cams, and some huevos. Anchor with gear.



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By Scott Beguin
From: Los Alamos, NM
Nov 9, 2007

The T2 stands for Texas part two.

By George Perkins
Administrator
From: Los Alamos, NM
Aug 12, 2008
rating: 5.10c

Although it's not clear that its going to take pro when you're on the ground, I found enough small nut and RP placements in the seam that it didn't feel unusually runout. This seam is too thin for cams. It is strenuous to hold on while trying to place gear, maybe running it out and going for it is the best choice for the onsight attempt.

In the flake section below the seam, the largest cam you can place is a #1 camalot, so don't bring anything bigger than that.

What I like about this climb most is that it's sustained and there aren't any good rests until the very end of the route. That and the giant pocket is cool.