Climb the steep underbelly of the low roof left of Siege Warfare's start up to a good kneebar and some thuggy moves out right onto the face. The difficulty eases up there and a few technical moves take you to the anchor. This is the farthest left route on the main wall's front face. There is a terrible 11-something to the left of this route around the corner, but you don't want to climb it...
I bolted this route after climbing the Evil Elliot route to the left. At the time we thought it was about 13a. Matt Samet made the first ascent of this one on his first trip to the dungeon and agreed on the grade, but he didn't use any knee bars.
I'll second Luke's opinion on the rating. 12c, hummmm..... Who's the consensus?
By George Perkins Administrator From: Los Alamos, NM Jul 28, 2008
"Established rating" changed to that recommended by longtime Dungeon developers Luke Laeser, Jean DeLataillade, and FA Matt Samet, and the two area guidebooks, so as to make comparison with other routes at the Dungeon more meaningful.
13a seems right -- all credit should go to Luke, Jean, and other Dungeon developers -- these guys were just nice enough to let me try the route when I was home on a summer visit.
Main Wall
RSS Feed
